Via Alta - mamma mia!.

Despite uncertain weather and closed cabins: Who on the Alta Via number 1 in the Dolomites wants to escape the masses, wanders in the autumn. Before a breathtaking natural backdrop of war once reigned here - today we are only soldiers still in mushrooms.
  What to do if the Dolomites wants for himself? Given the hundreds of thousands, of the summer at the height classic routes on the most beautiful part of the Alps pilgrimage, we decide for an autumn tour in late September. Since Regenscheue are already back in the valley, and with a bit of luck gives us the Southern Alps yet clear weather. The tent we take for safety's sake of order against weather and overcrowded huts to be immune.
Five days of receipt of our tour of Lower Village (Villabassa) to Cortina d? Ampezzo, we see more columns from around the excursionists Pragser Wildsee stroll. Ecologically correct, we were with the train and ran angereist us from Niederdorf until Pragser Wildsee On. Between parking and hotel on the lake Steps bear, so we decide outside the national parks, the most Wildsee starts, the right way to lodge Kaser aufzuschlagen the tent. The nature reserve is prohibited.
The tent quiet night ends in cool seven degrees. At dawn we rödeln rapidly from the tent and put on the backpacks. Back at the lake lies before us a Winnetou turquoise water below the magnificent wall of Seekofel. The rises in the pale Weißgrau of dolomite, the rock to the mountain's name was, over 1000 meters on steep.
We want to noon on the 2810-meter high top. So to fix the eastern shore beneath the Great Apostle herumgelaufen. We reach after 30 minutes in the narrow valley of the southern tip of the lake and thus the entry into the Dolomites Ridgeway 1 ".
The classic begins in loud map at the northern tip, but we are not just walking through trails. South of the lake, the path leads now moderately steep and well developed on. It goes through fragrant Latsch land, a little higher to cheat larch and birch needle into the eternal green. Where the autumn has already set up yellow flames. We breathe deeply and the end of summer. Left Hand protocols stones down a heap. Three, four chamois look chewing (what?) Down. Scheu are not here. We are in a weapons-free zone of the park.
From the tree line to Ofenscharte
Shortly below the "Nabigen hole" is the slope significantly. We switchbacks us to the heights. Excellent marks, a rope show clearly that this Aufweg to the slight, perpetrated much belongs. At approximately 2,050 meters forks in the road.
FOUND IN ... Alpine - The Mountain magazine edition 12/2008InhaltsverzeichnisHeft bestellenwww.alpin.deWir keep us right and industries by tall larch and the large map of the "oven" on some sophisticated way to Seekofelhütte from. The tree line is now among us, and thus the heavy rich smell of autumn. Look up here among the rocks just a few thistles in the pure air in the winter opposite.
We cross the "Ofenscharte" (2388 m) and already see the stone hut on the hillside lie. Here on the small saddle at the junction between Seekofel "Rifugio" and the Dolomite peaks show us in the clear light of morning, her beauty. Behind us the mountain with his bright dolomite, with the sun in so many colors can play. Among us the wide valleys, which only seems to reduce to the wild, jagged mountains behind it to lift.
But the beauty can not forget the pressure, with the heavy backpacks back of the bow. We climb from the cozy lodge, throwing the luggage into the room sometimes and strive to cross on the Seekofel too. Now we are really in the Dolomites arrived.
The climb from the lodge to the summit turns out to be surprisingly easy? compares to the small trouble with the magnificent panorama. Only the first third goes steeply uphill. In some places is the rock of boots as polished as the stairs of a medieval church. In the upper third helps a rope on the ridge plattenglatten each on the tricky places.
Topping indulge already two "overhaul" at the prospect. Beneath the feet is perpendicular hundreds of meters in depth, in the fathomless sea silent. West, south, east, we see the Three Peaks, the High Gaisl the Tofana Group and the Summit of the Sennesalm and Kreuzkofelgruppe. Rugged rock, jagged peaks, steep walls. We remain seated, enjoying the cool wind summit the prospect stroll back to the hut and beratschlagen jackdaw when feeding, as we weather and the west route will bring together. Another beautiful day, then threatening, according to weather bad times. "
Soldiers collect mushrooms
So we enjoy the beautiful morning of us along the path height 1 of the Seekofelhütte on a tundra to the first Sennelager area Hut leads. Pleasure we espy Italian military in the open bush land. What autumn after hard training looks, turns out through the binoculars rather than wooden mushrooms in the back of the huge tanks Seekofel-South.
ALPS-QUIZswiss-image.ch Have you heard of "Mrs. Montblanc" or the Sennentuntschi heard? The Alps lie in front of our door, but they stuck full of secrets. Test your knowledge in the mountain travel quiz SPIEGEL ONLINE! The landscape ahead is reminiscent of the Highlands. Late in the year has been mixed gray under the green, the wind tugs at the white tufts of cotton. At the herdsman Hut is closing with idyll. The hut is rather a hotel. A "natural road" leads up to the joggers, bikers, school romp. We leave these "Rennsteigtunnel" 15 minutes below the hut and branches left on a narrow path toward Fodara-Vedla hut from.
Again, this lodge is? said sympathetically? touristy, and was tapped the old cates after closing probably times a hamlet. Now is the wild life here Dolomites tamed. Wild is? S just behind the cabin, across the meadow stream. For behind Bach and lodge maintains a steep climb up through larch pine thicket and loose stock to Sentiero Bancdalsè, a wild card, whose steep scree under the dripping walls sometimes Sandpiper already quite grind is.
Who does not want to believe that the Dolomites their origin in the sea have felt it here under the soles. Directly across the narrow slit in the mountain forests of southern aromas with us spoiled, we get the loose scree at the feet. So that must be hiking: varied, challenging, lonely. And bottom roars of the creek.