Pilgrims tour as a journey.

Brandy, Loukoumi and stuffed tomatoes: In the Greek monk Republic Athos meals are simple, uncomplicated life. Who among the wandering pilgrim moves, has the feeling that in a past century to be landed - and in a world without women.
  The narrow, overgrown vegetation of the Mediterranean path abruptly goes into a small olive tree-lined clearing about. A deep blue sky and the lush green means a wild mountain scenery surround this piece of earth. I'm here until two hours wandered, and gradually there is euphoria On. There are only a few hundred yards downhill on a rocky road to craggy coast.
Here waits the goal, the majestic-looking Russian Orthodox monastery Panteleimonos. The dimensions of a small town more than a monastery, currently reside in its walls just 50 monks. Toward the end of the 19th Nor 1500 Century praying friars in the plant.
The white-held monastery complex with its bright green roofs lies quietly in the midday sun. Construction machinery indicate renovation work out. I complained easily feel uneasy. Whether an overnight stay is possible at all? In the cool entrance hall, I initially comes at a time knife, the Byzantine time shows. Their zero hour begins with sunset.
Then I finally hear voices from a lounge. A young monk discussed with two workers and is surprised by my presence. With an expression of regret he says in perfect English, that it really does not give way overnight. The alternatives? He leads me to a voluminous wall paintings. It shows the Athos peninsula, on the eastern foothills of Halkidiki in the Aegean sea, and its 20 major monasteries. After a glass of brandy, two glasses of water and the obligatory candy Loukoumi, from fruit jelly and powdered sugar, I must back into the nearly pristine nature. On the next monastery.
The Hitchhiker's Guide to the monks
Indeed expect meanwhile several monastic communities an application. In the past it was sufficient at the Pilgrim Office in Thessaloniki requested entry certificate for inspecting the autonomous territory. It costs 25 euros and entitled as a kind of visa to a four-day. However, only for men - women on the island have no access.
Simonos Petras is finally my second choice. A spectacular the construction of geschotterte switchbacks on a road to achieve. After an hour walk keeps a car, an off-road vehicles, at whose tax sonnenbebrillter monk sits. He brings pilgrims to the monastery and still has a free space. His offer, I would like to chill at 30 degrees Celsius not refuse.
Sonic backdrop of singing monk from the radio is the journey continues. A spectacular Petras Simonos located on a 280 meter high cliffs. In the background is the barren, 2033 meter high Mount Athos the backdrop. Several monks say the newcomers are welcome. In a small reception room of the friars brandy, water and Loukoumi, then follows the entry into the monastery book.
Until the time left Abendgottesdienst for a walk in the surrounding nature. Steeply sloping rocks, which glow at sunset to begin, leading to further downward monasteries on the coast. These have a castle-like character, since they in the Middle Ages had to fend off pirate raids. In the distance, beyond the deep blue sea, is the silhouette of the secular shaped peninsula Sithonia recognizable. It does not seem to be several kilometers, but several centuries to be removed.
Suddenly A rhythmic tapping disturbs the stillness. One of the monks, suggests using a small hammer against a wooden time for the evening worship. In the church of the monastery is pushing pilgrims and monks. Candles cast a warm light on the present. Incense permeates the room. Prayers and chants unfold their meditative effect. Gradually, I believe the legend that the Athoshalbinsel the garden of the Virgin Mary should be.
In klapprigen bus to Karyes
The next day a monk chauffiert the guests of the monastery to the main port Daphni. There ferries connect the monk republic with the border town Ouranopolis. There is considerable activity on the port forecourt. The present men with backpacks and bags hantierend discuss in the languages of the Balkans. There are pilgrims, monks and workers. On some waiting an intercity klappriger, with the Daphni Karyes connects the capital. Central to this village in the mountainous interior, I would like to hike.
The path leads through forest clearance but also by shadowless landscape shrub. It is almost entirely uphill. A difficult issue, which attracts flies intrusive. Only a single time I meet more hikers. A father and his son, whom I already far into your mobile phone listening. Towards evening, I finally reach Karyes, a municipality with 200 inhabitants. At first glance, a perfectly normal Greek village - if not the women were missing. Monk in the Republic are only allowed male guests.
From Karyes upside from a minibus heading to the main monastery of the Athoshalbinsel, Megisti Lavra. It lies on the southeast coast and is on a runway holprige reach, partly by acting urwüchsig forests leads. Here is the grave of pilgrims Athanasios Athonites. He settled in the 10th The first century monasteries built on the mountain. Although he wanted the life of a hermit, but his friend, the Byzantine emperor Nikephoros Phokas, persuaded him to the construction.
Here is the oldest and largest church so that the monk republic. Today resembles the monastery, with its defensive towers of a mighty castle. It stands on a 150-meter-high plateau and allows a fabulous view over the Aegean. Only the helipad in front of the main entrance of the plant disturbs the medieval ensemble.
Relics at a glance
Towards evening pilgrims get the opportunity to take a look at the relics treasure to throw. The presentation of individual bones made at a speed that in the post-viewing no doubt Holy assignment allowed. The attendees are devout and a number of veneration and kissing in the hope of future assistance to any relics.
The great library, with its 20,000 books meanwhile remains sealed. It has next to the crown of the Byzantine emperor Nikephoros of the biggest treasures of the imposing monastery. As the clock by 21 monks, the monastery gates close, a quiet gradually returns. In the ten men shared accommodation will be occupied only by the regular individual snoring disrupted guests.
After four-day I leave the monk republic. Daphni investigated in the customs farewell routinely backpacks and bags after stolen property. Then take the ferry named St. Panteleimon on the course two hours away Ouranopolis. There are women sunbathe on the beach. Shorts and airy clothes dominate the scene - after the days of pilgrims on an almost forgotten island picture.