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To the whitewashed walls sneaks an inconspicuous figure. The work is simple clothing style, face weathered and tanned from working outdoors. Fleetingly she mustered the visitors out of sight angles. Short nod, but no greeting. When did the shape of this place is not much to report. A day laborer, perhaps. One, based on the old farm in South Tyrol Val Badia (Ladin Name: Val Badia) erschuftet his daily bread.
Due to a heavy wooden door to get inside. The iron door handle is angeraut of rain, snow and the sweat of the occurrence. The
Court Sotciastel lies on 1400 meters altitude in the municipality Abbey (Ladin: Badia) and near the famous Heiligkreuzkofel. The photogenic mountain is at sunset in the mountain discipline "Alpenglow" the rival relaxed in the shade and is on many postcards and paintings.
In the living room of the house, everything is in place: the stove in the corner, the photos of the grandparents on the wall, the crucifix above the door - and half a dozen tourists on the corner, at the house mistress Erika Pitscheider want to learn how the ladino peasant generations before cooked. And it still do today.
Men on the runway, women in the cooking class
Erika Pitscheider chef wears a checkered apron, her forearms are strong with flour pollinating. Traces of the preparations for her cooking class, they once a week to deter and to the mostly German and Italians to participate. In the majority are women, their husbands not to the famous ski slopes of Alta Badia, or the wildly romantic hiking trails to follow.
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Ladin dishes live from simple ingredients. The barren soil in the steep slopes of the Dolomite valleys is just under a lot of physical effort to elicit more than grass for cattle. Fruit, cereals, meat and vegetables were previously hard-earned. Today, much of valleys with a milder climate was introduced.
Paradoxically, the cooking classes, in which Erika Pitscheider the simple regional dishes prepared in the Val Badia, a decent Zubrot for the family. It has to a certain degree of local notoriety brought - as the preservation of the Ladin cuisine. And so part of the Ladino culture.
My favorite shows Erika Pitscheider the manufacture of Turtres. These are fried dumplings filled with spinach and curd. There is also what with potato or sauerkraut filling. In neighboring German Pusteria, the gateway to the Val Badia, the Turtres under the name Tirtlan known. The names come from the Latin word from torta "round bread".
"A simple dish with simple ingredients," says Erika Pitscheider, "and simply nachzukochen". The Turtres were a symbol of the history of Ladiner: The best of the what could be found. In every respect. Ladiner centuries lived in complete isolation and abject poverty. Until the fifties the tourism gorgeous mountain panorama of the Val Badia discovered, and especially the National Park Fanes-Senes-Prague, the picturesque effect almost unreal. The stranger brought prosperity in the mountains.
Plaything of politics
But the mentality of many Ladiner is still characterized by restraint. Guests encounter it polite, but reserved. They rented rooms, but strangers can not look into the innermost. "It takes a long time until a Ladiner opens," says Erika Pitscheider, "it remains under himself and does not talk much. Just like my husband out there." When the supposed day laborers in front of the house is therefore the husband of Erika Pitscheider, the owner of Sotciastel.
For centuries, the ball Ladiner a game of politics. This has worked for generations in the mind of the people dug. Once populated mountain peoples romanische an area from the Adriatic to the Gotthard in Switzerland ranged. Migrations and territorial losses restricted territory are increasingly one. In Italy, about 30,000 live Ladiner. They are spread over five valleys in three different provinces are: Alto Adige, Trentino and Veneto. Their language is much more familiar with the Romansch used in the Swiss canton of Grisons maintained.
Neither Ladin or Romansh dialects are Italian, as is often erroneously suspected. "It hurt our pride," says Erika Pitscheider. Even their Italian guests, it must, by its own tutoring in geography type. "Many do not know that we speak a language of its own," says Erika Pitscheider. Only three town - in Italian, Ladin and German - can be found in some ring.
Culinary approximation
Between the Ladins and their guests will find rapprochement today for the sake of simplicity to culinary paths instead - Against man's heart is through his stomach. A few miles the valley well wealthy tourists love about the award-winning cuisine: Nowhere else in Italy is the density of Michelin stars as high as in Alta Badia on the southern end of the Val Badia. One of the three-star restaurants in Alta Badia is the "de Stüa Michil" in Corvara. The Turtres be here with Ladin barley soup served.
Eponym is the gourmet cellar Michil Costa. With his Hotel La Perla and a strong sense of style and Feingeistiges he has ensured that Alta Badia after a meeting in the Alps has moulted celebrities. Until recently, president of Costa ladino community of interest "Uniun Generela di Ladins". He is considered one of the architects of the ladino thing. Unhurried he quotes Goethe and wisdom of the Dalai Lama. The former Italian Prime Minister Romano Prodi, he mentioned in passing as "a very good friend."
In the background of his
Hotel La Perla outshines the mighty mountain Sassongher the scene. In his private salon is Mürbegebäck and Costa coffee with a shot of grappa kredenzen rare. "Works only with the past present and future," he ponders. "As a minority, we have only one chance, if we create this balance."
Change is regarded with suspicion in the Val Badia. Few hoteliers dared so far to step into the modern age. Anders Walter Craffonara. In the village asterisk (Ladin: La Ila), not far from Corvara, had a good going Craffonara hotel - and had it demolished to make it against the modern four-star hotel, "Lara Ciasa" einzutauschen. "I would have to retire," says Craffonara, "but my wife and I wanted to know it again." The modern architecture of his hotel, while the guests, but not by the older villagers loved. "We Ladiner must move with the times if we want to survive," says the experienced hotelier.
Change is in the farmhouse kitchen by Erika Pitscheider not an issue. Guests looking for here is the old Ladin - and in the form of Turtres they can even try and ausbacken. Prepared by an old recipe, which remained unchanged until today.
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