Each step is a risk.

In rusty iron steps to the summit: The hike to the highest mountain in the Dolomites is not for timid souls. As the scene of the First World War attracted the Marmolada also interested in history - some forgotten before loud enthusiasm, to think about their safety.

 

From all sides fly the white scraps approached. Above the sella floor is parked in a thick cloud layer, the deeper drops and already the Piz Boé tickles. We watch the game from the clouds a few kilometers away, about the sun still casts its powerful light on the blue, red and yellow climbing helmets.

Still, the Marmolada summit is not reached, but the very last meters to the Cross of the Dolomites highest summit (3343 meters) run on a broad, non-hazardous burrs, so that the carbine Klettersteigsets just dangle on the belt and no longer have to slip over the wire.

The climb is a mixture of high-alpine trip with glacier crossing and historic Ferrata, even here in the Dolomites is unique. After a harsh winter may rise on the west even in July from a sheet of ice covered the mountain with crampons must step on the ironing go. We did not. After the small glaciers, we have our shoes from the lifts free from the backpack and the harness herausgekramt.

FOUND IN ...

Alpine - The Mount Magazine

Issue 6 / 2009

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Otmar Mountainguide Prinoth is first finished with the retooling and uses the opportunity for a small crash course on the history of the Marmolada: She was a field of combat in the First World War. The Austrians are deep tunnels in the thick ice and blown up an underground Eisstadt have built to the hill against the Italians to defend. In times of climate change are of course no longer visible traces, the sun is strong on the ice genagt.

Prinoth will later between Marmolada Summit Cross hut and build with only a few meters apart, on tiptoe, and his arms extended toward heaven. "So highly were still snow and ice fifteen years ago." Now this is the bare rock, the glaciers begin until two or three meters below.

On the route of the soldiers

The Marmolada is the war but not deleted from their memory. During the ascent dive a few meters away from the old steel cables, to himself, stainless electricity pylons on. And finally, via ferrata itself is a relic from the bloody time. Of course, improvements have been made, repaired, assistance. Many steps are still original, you see the years they do not necessarily have to.

CLIMBING CLIMBING WITH SELLA-GLANCE

The Val Gardena lies at the western edge of the Dolomites, and bordering the Veneto. It is the perfect starting point for tours around the sella floor. About 10,000 inhabitants the valley, with its principal places of Ortisei, Santa Cristina and Selva Gardena. Many of the inhabitants speak Italian, German and Ladin.

Mountainguide Prinoth has always pointed out, when another section is old. With weak nerves guests he should not necessarily make. Which already sounds like climber that he just boots on a 90-year-old bracket will kick? And on the Ferrata Marmolada is also used by people who are not looking for absolute thrill. It is easy Dolomites ratios. Dangerous is the tour, however, the descent on the glacier, which now lies ahead of us.

The summit photos are made, the cottage industry has on our Teekonsum happy and Sella is now shrouded in clouds, from his already narrow southern hardly something to see. The way back to the cable car station is, apart from a small Felsband completely on ice, but it is quite normal walkers from its peak storm has held. And then slide the tourists ahead of us over the bare ice. Without a rope, in shorts, not even sticks, they have it. This is good.

Tourists, climbers, hikers, mountain guides are at the foot of the glacier from a gondola, which hinabführt to Fedaiasee and for the long journey is enough time for brooding. One or the other is the question of what the German TÜV probably garbage baskets with iron rods would say that in every major city between department stores and fast food restaurants might be, but here two walkers in more than 2000 meters above the sea of blogs A to B transport.

We displace the subject and prefer to steer our thoughts on yesterday, the launch of our Ferrata short trips with the motto: always the sella floor in sight. Already on arrival at our hotel in Val Gardena, we have a piece of the mountain massif seen the Italians quite boring "Gruppo di Sella" have baptized.

There were the German-speaking Alto Adige uniquely creative. The mountains around its highest peak, the Piz Boé (3152 meters), actually looks like an oversized Hackstock. Especially from the West's perspective, where we have our first Sella-within-a-glance Ferrata have started: on the summit of the Col Rodella small.

THE TOURS (TOTAL TIME | HEIGHT METERS | DIFFICULTY)

Via Ferrata Col Rodella, 2484 m

(2? 3 hrs | 350 Hm | hard)

Even experienced skiers need to Klettersteig the key body good nerves.

Best time: July? September.

Starting point: Sellajochhaus (2180 m).

Route: You have the way to start looking, there's no marking, as a rough guide: on the left below the mountain station of the Col Rodella train heading west. At the outset there are a few vertical ropes before going into a gully, the three iron-ironing is overcome. Then it's easier to continue. It is more difficult with regard to the key point, exposed corner, where only one cable is tensioned. The builders here have deliberately avoided artificial steps and therefore ensure thrill. It closes on a piece of smooth stone, well graded before rocks lead to the flat summit.

Punta Penia, 3343 m, west-Marmolada

(5? 6 h | 1000 Hm | medium)

King's trip on the highest peaks of the Dolomites hochalpinem character.

Best time: mid-July? Mid-September.

Starting point: Fedaia Lake (2020 m); Bergbahn to Pian dei Fiacconi (2626 m).

Route: From the mountain station is about 100 Hm downhill before the climb begins with a map. At the last piece crosses a small glacier. Long rows of iron dominate the Klettersteig, initially through the shady north side runs. Here are some easy tightrope insured Crossings on rock slabs on the west. Then, always at the ridge to the summit in the rubble. Descent: The best over the glacier back to the lift station.

Small Klettersteig Cir, 2520 m

(2? 2 ½ hours | 250 Hm | medium)

Pleasure trip at the end? constantly in mind: the jagged Dolomite peaks in the East? Summit overlooking the rolling green Gardena.

Best time: July? September.

Starting point: Selva, Kabinenbahn Dantercepies.

Route: A grassy slope is in short switchbacks upward direction via ferrata. After a steep gully man stands before the entrance ladder. Now partially exposed without artificial steps further. After waiting Südgrat the finals, the vertical peak upswing. Descent: An wire-rope/rope-end down into a saddle and a ravine full of boulders.