Real romance.

"Better than Disneyland" Heidelberg is the world to Berlin and Munich as the most famous city in Germany and as a commercialized tourist destination par excellence. And yet, the old university city, not only in scenery but also of life.

 

He will be late, he knows it. With maximum speed races over the cobblestones of a student. His bike scheppert. Still, several hundred meters to the new university and the professor did not like it when it is disturbed during speeches. The young graduates brettert around the corner at the lower road, and almost in a 30-member group of Japanese tourists inside. No gap, no.

The travelers from the Far East staring him in surprise, some with open mouth, but nobody moves. From the trip leader reaps the cyclist a grumpy look. "No, you are not in a museum" complains of a hurry to English. Now only occurs on one side. Two streets away, the game is repeated. This blocked a cozy gray-haired bummelnde Horde Americans the way. Beautiful Heidel Burg, better than Disneyland.

Yet this city is no scenery, but real. Still. There is indeed such a thing as a real romance, and for those who like to live here, despite the horrendous high rents and the excesses of tourism, Heidelberg is also a way of life.

Especially in the spring when the woods above the old town freshly ergrünen the Philosopher and the fruit trees bloom. Who might walk for miles without having to encounter on the streets. During the summer months are often defines an almost undeutsche heat of the city. On the Neckar Wiese Aalen students in the sun, many of them have brought their books.

Is suitable for cooling a bath in the river, whose water quality is now back as good is that, despite an official warning without risk to health can swim. Heidelberg evening doing so, as it would in Italy. Residents stroll and take in the numerous street cafes, Parlier, laugh and enjoy the warm air. In winter, when clear sky, gives the clear light a very special magic. And if it snowed, there is probably no ghostly beauty as the castle in full moon.

Sometimes elitist, but at the same time open to the world

A large part of his flair Heidelberg owes its course soon 623 years old university. Without the thousands of students and scientists, some of which are from all over the world flocking to the Neckar River, the city would be just a sleepy provincial. Pretty, but dull and spiritless. Instead, an "aura Academica", which sometimes comes elitist, but at the same time for a cosmopolitan and liberal climate guarantees. Who for hours about God and the world likes to debate, is always interesting conversation partner. The cultural offer is Heidelberg? measured by the number of inhabitants? remarkable.

All that remains hidden from most tourists. The majority of them spend a few hours or one day in Heidelberg. They spit on buses or on the castle Neckarmünzplatz, then the standard sights off the chord. The guides provide the clock and tell, what exactly needs to be told: the legend of the dwarves Perkeo, as the French destroyed the castle - and the next day is the most forgotten. For lasting memories, there is finally a camera.

On the Old Bridge is so continuous as long as there is daylight. Anyone who crosses it, you can not do otherwise, as the masses fotografierwütigen constantly running through the picture. The ritual is primarily in the Asian tourist is always the same. One is upright posturing, and Brückentor castle in the background, the other knipst, and then the roles are swapped. At home, each able to see it was there. But why?

Ryoko Kruger knows the answer. The Tokioterin born eight years ago moved with her German husband in the Neckar River and is since 2006 acting as a guest leader. "Japanese often get only seven days leave in one piece," she says. This time must be less than optimally utilized. "If we think of Europe, is the view from the Philosophers of the Castle and the Old Bridge simply," says Krueger. Asians empfänden the local atmosphere as very exotic and fabulous. "Heidelberg is always like Christmas, has one of my guests once said."

Some questions are asked again and again, reports the guide. "What the people live here?", For example, because one never sees industry. "Where they hang their laundry to dry on?" Also wondering, the Japanese visitors on the dense development and puzzle how in Heidelberg, reorganization feasible. Ryoko Krueger believes even that their proteges have the opportunity to be the spirit of this city feel. After all, they would travel under the program but still 30 to 40 minutes for free.

25 years with Mozart kitsch

This break, however, spend a lot of Japanese tourists with souvenir-shopping and land like remotely in one of the strangest shops Heidelberg: the "Unicorn". Who here goes through the door, enters a strangely-mixed artificial world. Japanese characters praise DDR Ampelmännchen plastic and wood, to porcelain plate made in Bavaria Regnitz, Siku model cars, dress coats for toddlers, Austrian and Swiss Army Knife Leinentischdeckchen. Noble branded and dreadful Nippes, musically framed by a Mozart Piano Concerto in perfectly level.

Last year, celebrated the "Unicorn" his 25-year anniversary. The secret of success? The guests from Japan now times have little time, says a Japanese seller, and often no knowledge of foreign languages. Here you can find almost anything their hearts desire, she says. Very popular were smokers and nutcrackers made of wood, but also highlights German craftsmanship as the company Zwilling knives, Meissen porcelain and terry towels from Feiler.

On Friday evening, by 20 clock to make the main road to the shops, the tour groups are a good two hours from the picture disappeared. At the corner Dreikönigstrasse someone in big yellow chalk writing a note on the wall behind: "To Saufmeile". The arrow points to the left.

Only a few steps further Gegröle resonates through the streets? the Odenwälder are apparently already there. Every weekend escape countless mostly young people from Epfenbach, Spechbach, Loben Field, William Field and similarly delightful evening poor grades in Heidelberg's Old Town and looking for joy. Most will find just the alcohol. Especially penetrating are the young company indoor evenings Over bunch of young women who are not fast enough any fleeing male care kisses and want to turn on junk. Some suffered three such attacks on old plaster hundred meters.

Grunge and rubber in the Sonderbar Gockel

Meanwhile, go into the bars of the infamous Lower Road to three o 'clock at night legions filled liqueur glasses and liquor bottles with "coward" or similar nerve poisons on the counters, the hectoliters of beer not to mention. "I-function" and "orb" are among the favorite places of the rural youth. But there are alternatives.

"Betreutes Drink" promotes the simple plastic sign above the door. Welcome to the "peculiar," Heidelberg's toughest dive. The air is once again cutting. At the Resopaltheke crowd Hartz IV recipients next versoffenen lawyers. PhD students closely Rock bearded poet, philosopher and sip absinthe together. Loud rock, punk and grunge alternate, to talk to you closely together. From the ceiling hangs the rubber Gockel, emblem and mascot of the restaurant, on the wall posters biting satire and St. Pauli devotional.

Behind the bar staff and wuselt the midst of the host Michael Markert, a giant hamburgers with long blond hair. A man of astonishing vitality, despite its well above 60 Lenze. The hours fly. Beer, politics, Hemingway odor and sweat mingle, until shortly after three suddenly the lights on. The counter crew roars her farewell: "Feierabend. Raus their rats!" Schade.