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Fishing villages and fairytale forests, rugged coastlines and quaint pubs: During a hike on the South West Coast Path is Cornwall at its best. Strittmatter Judka followed the path of smugglers and soldiers - and the five most beautiful stages.

 

This path requires respect. A little traipse, loiter, look, that's not on the high road to England's coast. Happy times as a Almspaziergang, zehrend times like a high mountain expedition. The South West Coast Path (SWCP): 1020 kilometers long, from Minehead to Poole after almost, about eight weeks for the average hiker. One wanders through worlds that could not be more different.

Is high times at the top of the Iron Coast, sometimes at the Granite Coast, looks black and sharp pointed coasts of much gloom umweht or zartliebliche hanging, orange and pink mossy covered with heather. Time mixes chalk, slate times in the rugged cliffs of the skin, sometimes lit and broom sprouts or cabbage fields.

Only the blackberry grows almost everywhere. With its thorn branches picks after the walkers, with their fruits they are comforted by his dry mouth. Who they have been as lax Snack spurned by the wayside, will pounce on them here, because stocks are in the backpack on the path of the paths quickly.

1. From Pollock Weir after Lynmouth

We prepare to be our first tour in Porlock Weir, a fishing village in Somerset, a county, we want to take a stage. In Porlock Weir harbor fish boats in the Modder schlagseitig, the tide has given them under the water of Kiel gemaust, the sky gloomy rain fronts. But prefer a hot tea in the "Anchor Hotel" in which the cat purrs, and the wood fire crackles in the fireplace?

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Hotel behind a wooden fence, the entrance to the SWCP. This is the path to itself, its entrances often hidden behind private gates of the garden, beach dunes or parking lots. Pubs kitchens, bedroom windows and garages schlingelt he is happy to pass before the free cliff is visible or undergrowth. The entrances to the road are everywhere marked with a wooden shield, the logo of the official England emblazoned hiking trails - the penis. Two Bänkchen is mostly because the hikers climbing over a fence to facilitate, guide, and the goal of mini-stages.

Behind Porlock Weir starts a fairy tale forest, in which fairies and goblins might lurk. Mystisch his overgrown trees, moss on the trunks, Farnbüsche and little light, through the closed roof flashes green. In such an environment is a dark tales, and ghost will be here around the coast also have given. The legend says, and knows what is right. The night they suddenly sit on the bed sleeping, scurry as free dental wife through the bathroom and let toy horse whinny.

Before the Porlock-free lawn in forest land einmündet leads us to the path of passing Culbone Church, a church, its oldest parts dating from the 11th Century, the smallest parish church in England, not even 40 square meters large. Before her gate lies a Tiny cemetery where the tombstones - weathered and mortality data for 1800 - jut diagonally into the sky. A Filmort, as done for sinister mystery or scary scenes.

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Lynmouth direction, Endstation, we pass the Silcombe Farm, a Bed & Breakfast. Einsam romantically because she has haylofts Phloxbusch and mümmelnde sheep in front of the door, the coast is at this point the only way to guess. A bitter, windswept SWCP section meets us here, and later, in Lynmouth, a virile impressed Harbor, through the clock to strike five o'clock in the afternoon tourists scurry, then dancing is dead.

To feed the seagulls is prohibited, perhaps because the birds continues, sooner or later zuzuschnappen if they hunger plagues. The only landmark in Lynmouth: the flood museum. 1952 The disaster, a huge flood, an event in the United Kingdom ripples.

On the trail of smugglers and soldiers

During the long years of its existence has seen a lot of the coast: Ship sets, tornado attacks and war. Smugglers, peasants and soldiers. And all have left their footprints, have him, the times began as a trail, to a veritable way. There are cards, which it described in detail, books, the psychological him, his story fills shelves.

Today, tourists are its most important visitors, before, until the First World War, it was the coast guard, after the liquor, soap and candles hunt. In bays, caves, ledges hid the loot finds. And because the search was for neither helicopters nor cars, was on foot and by hand gefilzt. The officials got - to the spot to be - cottages were built. Even their wives and families took advantage of the path of the corridor into the neighboring village or school.

That he is not always right on the cliff entlangführt but erschlängelt detours through dense forest, with adjacent sites, therefore, that a lot of coastal land in private hands and transferred it to the present dispute is who is now a priority - tourists or owners. The SWCP Association takes care of recovery and proudly proclaims: "Through our tenacity, we have many good parts back."

So many facets, such as the route has, so different are the people who use it. Some look after the birds, others for the rock, including artists and archaeologists come. Some dive into the nature, set off with a backpack, tent and cooking utensils, who needs it more convenient, will be held on Wegesrand always a Bed & Breakfast with shower and TV.

There are sections, but also through, Paddy Dillon, English travel writer and expert SWCP, advisable especially leisure, does not recommend starting a hurry. A little planning is needed, however: How long does it for twelve miles, there's the next bay in a cafe when the B & Bs open?