Europe has a new islets - in the Indian Ocean.

France 101 Department is far from Paris: The tiny island of Mayotte near the Comoros has been decided by popular vote, will belong to the EU. Nearly 200,000 new Europeans win the Union in its extreme outskirts.

 

Paris - On Sunday, the approximately 70,000 eligible voters called on the future geopolitical status of only 374 square kilometers large archipelago in the Indian Ocean to vote - and they have opted for Europe. 95.2 percent of eligible voters voted in favor, the island that its 101 Département of France should be. French President Nicolas Sarkozy welcomed the referendum as a "historic moment for Mayotte.

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Mayotte Island: Extreme peripheral region of the EU

186,000 people officially live on the island, almost entirely Muslim, the French since 1841 and since 1976 officially became the "Territorial Collectivités," the overseas French administrative area belong.

As 101 Département of the Grande Nation, the inhabitants of Mayotte is not only entitled to more extensive social benefits of the French state, the island would thus automatically become part of the European Union. The status will take effect in 2011 - an attractive prospect, because now provides Paris with an annual 635 million euros a standard of living, which is ten times as high as in the neighboring Komoreninseln.

1974, the island of Mayotte is the only population of the Comoros on renounces its independence and remained under French territorial. In the poverty and economic hardship region between Madagascar and Mozambique Sondersatus this attracts many foreigners and refugees.

History lesson in the saddle.

Spectacle, there were always on the Danube: Where once the Emperor Barbarossa gathered tens of thousands of soldiers are now hundreds of cyclists on the road. The helmets are colorful, and their enemies are others - on the shore waiting for huge swarms of mosquito prey.

 

Between Schlögen and Aschach are the darkest places of the Danube, the mysterious depths and the dark hills. Who here is rising from the saddle, helmet decreases the kühlrippenbesetzten and constantly talking stocks and diseases Radler group can move on, who for a few minutes in the sub-timber is hidden and silent, which are the secrets of the old, wild river reveal.

Is not there a few meters to a tree leaned a shooter? He holds the bow forward, breath and a young deer in sight. Behind him roars of electricity, from the distant voices are heard, but the animal can not disturb. The shooter will replace the handle, the arrow sirrt it, the deer disappears in the grove. This is clear: Today, there are fish.

Fish is abundant in the river, but when a hunter shot a noble animal, and then remains for him is often a good bit left over, tripe, or brains. The Emperor can not eat everything. The Emperor? Which emperor? Remove any. Almost all Konrad, all of Charles and Henry were here all along, young and old.

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Even today come Konrad, Charles and Henry along here, but also Elsbeth and Hannelore. Almost all wear clothes, as colorful as it is one worthy emperor and helmets on the head as the fight. Also they do not travel alone, some are in groups of 50 or more on the banks of the Danube on the way. Cyclists, cyclists and cyclists, most of them belong to the more experienced generation.

This is due to two things: one is the section of the Danube between Passau and Linz the best, wildest, most surprising river stretch in our latitudes, but it always goes downhill. And who wants to return, it has been easy: on the whole route of 100 kilometers, there are just 50 meters in height difference.

Insects as Quälgeister

In a quiet bend of the Danube, where the water is calm in large swirls flowing, grab the fish today, to grasp, according to mosquitoes, as it always did. In the floating masses Quälgeister as a gray cloud over the late Danube. At this quiet place near the Schlögener noose, where the river on his way to the east a pirouette turns, can be a bit of the times nachspüren than the heart of Europe, street traders and warriors, kings and emperors.

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As early as Roman ruins still smoked and Central Europe as it was dark Hagens beard, came the awful proud Kriemhild along here on the way, Ms. Etzel to be and then to the murderer. 1400 years later, Franz Joseph at the Danube near Linz in his Sisi Reception and led her home. The bloodshed ended. And in between? Except Waffenklirren girls laugh. How might it have geklungen than 1719 Karl Alexander von Württemberg "Moidle ship" sent to the Balkans with 150 young women, his remaining in the Banat, where settling officers should marry? (Descendants still live in Romania and Hungary.) Your laughter and anticipation of the complaints about the uncertain future are in the river sediments trapped.

Ernst Neweklowsky, Linzer engineer who has recorded everything in his life's work on the upper Danube, a gigantic compendium of everything on ships, cargoes, voyages occurred, plus all the legends and curses of the boatmen, the customs and rights of the songs, the River surrounded in his quest for completeness forgot Neweklowsky not, poetry and prose around the river for water and navigational accuracy to be verified.

Drüber mud!.

In the thick mud coat under scorching sun: To see the most visitors from Spain's Costa Cálida. The spa treatment with the famous mud, has left to be desired aesthetically - this is to rheumatism, gout and acne help.

 

Murcia - Bright white stands out in a bikini by the dark background. Arms, legs, abdomen and even the face of the young woman - nearly everything is black. Costa Cálida, "Hot Coast": Not for nothing has the area its name. The sun is burning mercilessly from the sky, temperatures up to 40 degrees in the summer are not uncommon.

But the Spaniard has not burned. With her friends she is referred to Lo Pagan Mar Menor came to take up residence there with the famous mud einzureiben. The waters, about a hundred kilometers from Alicante and the lively beaches of the Costa Blanca, is especially for sunbathers and families with kids. Even in winter the region is one of the warmest areas of Spain.

A narrow, approximately 20 kilometers long tongue of land separating the Mar Menor - the "little sea", as the Spaniards call it - from the Mediterranean. Its water is calm and no deeper than seven meters. And it is warmer, the temperature is usually five degrees on the current values of the Mediterranean. Many hotels and tourist complexes have been around the Mar Menor located. So far, there are Spaniards who spend their summer vacation.

Are tight seal at the buildings on the peninsula of La Manga, the "sleeves". Who want to be the route with the wheel off. From Cabo de Palos in the south, the route leads past numerous beaches. In Las Encanizadas but concludes: At this point, feeding the Mediterranean, the Mar Menor with fresh water. Plans for a bridge, there were many. For environmental reasons, but so far they have been discarded.

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Mild winter, hot summer: The area around Murcia on the Mediterranean coast is considered to be the warmest region of Spain

Lo Pagan is already in sight - but who is there wants to be back and once for a drive around the Mar Menor. The municipality of San Pedro del Pinatar at the northern end of the lagoon is known for the curative properties of its mud. The sun and the high salinity of the water have ensured that many minerals are deposited in the soil.

The mud and anti-inflammatory effect against rheumatism, gout and arthritis, but also for skin diseases like acne. "The mud layer acts like a blotting paper, and frees the skin of toxins," it says on explanatory signs on the beach promenade.

From head to toe in mud

The paved path leads in Lo Pagan on wooden piers over, into the Mar Menor are hineingebaut. Steps lead down to the water. In small plastic buckets to collect the tourists dark mud from the seabed and is thus a rub. The young Spanish women have obviously fun: From head to toe distribute the silt and rub each other back and face. Then, a stroll along the promenade duty, so the sun can dry the mud. Is the black mass of a gray layer solidifies, it will be off again.

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AP, DDP, Antje Blinda

Children with Sardine nonsense.

My classroom is a fishing boat in the Adriatic to learn even the youngest, was the sea of quirky and delectable residents has to offer. At the conclusion of the course there is a competition for the best sardine - and a salty feast.

 

Half past five the morning: The light has to be this early hour a strange character. Pale blue, almost milky spreading it over the rooftops of Fa? From ana. The town is still asleep, finally, Sunday. In the quiet streets just sneak a few cats around. At the harbor, on the other hand, the dull sound of a ship's diesel Tucker. A small group of people has gathered on the quay. Three guys, around ten years old, adopted from their mothers and climb aboard the "Luna".

Fisherwoman Danica Toma? I are life jackets, then pulls the canvas one. Her husband Sergio turns the engine high, a vibration passes through the fuselage, from the cutter sets. The children have well-behaved on a bench set. From their faces, the morning still tired to read, but in the eyes to stimulate curiosity and excitement. The "Luna" has meanwhile the pier behind and goes to the blog smooth Adriatic beyond. The first gulls follow the boat already. You know why.

Who knows fishing, knows the magic of such an early day. We peered into the dark depths of the sea inside, usually sees nothing but an idea what is down there and everything could hide. Joyful excitement mingles with hope for a good catch. The three young passengers to experience it all today for the first time as a student of a very special educational institution: the "? Kola sardela", Academy of fishermen from Fa? Ana. And the "Luna" is on this Sunday as a floating classroom.

Quaking rays and flatfish

The sky is brighter, the sun will soon rise. Danica Toma? I explained the function of a control network, their voice must be weighed against the engine noise to fight. The boys are listening. Then it reached the first marker buoy. Sergio fishes it out of the water, the rope to a winch and starts the night on the network to be designed. The sea was at this point about 14 meters deep, said Danica, the soil is sandy.

More and more network mesh landed on deck, in the mesh are only rocks, sponges and Tang Suddenly shine pink shed. The fisher prefers a sea bream from the maze. The students take the motionless fish in turn fascinated in their hands. Now follow two bizarre looking "star gazers" and a sole. These flat fish are not only of people like verspeist, but also dolphins, lectured Danica. "The tear them from the nets out. A dolphin takes 20 kilos of fish a day."

The guys are amazed. In the next network depends Rays even a zither. Anyone who touches him gets a noticeable surge. After nearly three hours of lessons, the "Luna" back on course to port. Pleasure is the catch exception, the gulls screaming rush to the viscera discarded.

"Our courses cover three thematic fields - marine ecology, fishing and cooking," says Melita Perokovi proud. Anything with the fishing has to do. Thus, at Fa? Anas centuries-old tradition as a fishing adequate follow. Perokovi, an elegantly dressed woman of forty, is the initiator of the "? Kola sardela, director of the local tourism association and probably something like an unofficial mayor. She knows everything and everyone in the neighborhood and told enthusiastic about the rich history of their city, for example, already in Roman times as a production center for amphora was famous.

The "students" of fishing academy came from all over Croatia, children like adults, then Perokovi continued. "The concept is a huge success." But no, on its own premises in 2004, it had the Academy not. "The whole village is our school," says the director. The lessons found on the church square near the harbor instead. Or just on the sea.

High security zone for Tito

Dozens of fish species inhabiting Istrian coastal waters, but one of them is at the "? Kola sardela" in the heart: its named after the sardines. This has historical reasons. Until 1952 was in Fa? Ana one of the largest fish canning factories in the northern Adriatic resident - with a giant sardine production. Non-economic reasons at the end sealed it, but political. Yugoslav leader Tito chose only three and a half kilometers off the coast of Brijuni Islands is one of his residences, and family? Ana suddenly found himself in a high security zone again. Any traffic from then on was strictly monitored. The factory had to forcibly resettle.

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Nowadays, the Brijuni archipelago, a strictly protected National Park and the Adriatic sea chronically overfished. From Fa? Ana go out only two on Sardine fishing boats, the other fishermen - most of them operate only in their craft sideline - make targeted hunting of sea bass, Dorade Delikatess and other species. They sell their catch to local restaurants.

"The fishery has no more important economic role," says Melita Perokovi. "Fa? Anas economy is now about 40 percent from tourism." Otherwise the people earn their bread in just 15 kilometers from city of Pula shipyard or elsewhere. But the sardine-ebt tradition continues - on the tables, but obviously also in the hearts of many families? Recognized.

It is evening become the Kirchenuhr has just eight beaten. On the Square festival atmosphere prevails. Under a white tent roof is lined with simple folding tables, behind bowing to men, women and children, elderly and young on cutting boards, serving and large tin cans. All are participants of this course of Einsalz "? Kola sardela".

A jury nominates the most beautiful pieces of silver

The moment of truth is approaching, because once the jury is the work of all 23 students and evaluate the best SELECTION. Busy hands to drag on for months in the salt mature sardines from the metal barrels. Some cuts and hand movements, already have the silver fillets transforms into appetizing. They are white bread, olive oil, onion rings, capers and pine nuts served.

Everything tastes rich Mediterranean, many viewers may try for free. Surprisingly, the Croats seem almost to be among them. Here and there one hears two sentences Italian, a few English words, not German. Then, the music. The band plays loud brutal Balkan folk, on the horizon will almost incidentally bilderbuchreifer a sunset instead.

Gordana Pavlovi and work in the eleven-year-old David chord pace. Sardines find your hot cakes. Wherein lies the charm of these two fish processing? "My family comes from Fa? Ana, my son was born here, and this is part of our lives," said the tall woman. David can not be distracted from his work.

Nearby La Svjetlana prepared? TNO their salt sardines. Also it is used by their sons, the six-year-old Robert and the four-year-old Boris, strongly supported. Soon, all fish eaten, the jury announced its results. The winner is a genuine Fa? Recognized. Fischer Sergio Toma? I laughingly takes pride in receiving the trophy. Behind the table are bottles of wine uncorked. Man faces and drink to what probably yes? Long live the "sardela"!

Maastricht launches "intelligent" control system.

Environmentally friendly and safe to be flying over northwestern Germany and the Benelux countries will be - thanks to a new control system. This allows many travel routes in Europe will be shortened.

 

Maastricht / Frankfurt am Main, Germany - It is the first step towards a single European airspace, since experts are certain: Eurocontrol in Maastricht, a district headquarters of the European air traffic control, began on Monday a new control system in operation.

With the "smart" system will be the ever-denser traffic efficiently settled, said the Dutch Transport Minister Camiel Eurlings. The headquarters in Maastricht, controlled airspace is one of the busiest worldwide.

The new 46 million-euro system for processing flight data is promising: The 250 air traffic controllers can use so-called real-time information faster and more direct routes across the rigid air corridors plan. The flight path will be continuously updated. Scheduled flight paths take into account dynamic factors such as weather conditions and traffic. Through simulated and displayed on the screen can pilotage routes critical situations already 20 minutes earlier and refrain warn the pilots.

The exchange between controllers and pilots will be more automated, told the Center. Thus, the risk of misunderstandings in the handling further. Also, the workload of the pilots will be monitored. If in the sector, a pilot is very much traffic, other colleagues to step in and help.

The new flight data processing system is the key to aviation in the future to lead, says Eurocontrol's Director General David McMillan. By 2030, with a doubling of air traffic in Europe is expected.

Fewer flights over Germany

First, though the economic crisis leads to a reduction in flight revenue, at least in German airspace, as the German Air Traffic Control (DFS) announced. With 3.15 million civilian and military flights, the DFS in the past year is still 1.1 percent more flights than in 2007 controls. Since October 2008, the air traffic in Germany, but clearly. The documents on Monday in Frankfurt am Main report presented mobility of DFS.

In December 2008 there were 7.5 percent less, in February of this year already, minus 12.9 percent. Overall, the number of aircraft movements since the beginning of 2009 by 10 percent, said the chairman of the DFS Management, Dieter Kaden.

For the current year had a total of five percent fewer flights compared to the previous year, Kaden quoted a forecast of Eurocontrol. Accordingly, until 2011 could the level of 2008 again reached. Generally, the prospects were anything but positive, Kaden underlined and referred to figures of the grim trade association IATA.

A city like a ship.

Cruise destination, but not at the ocean, Southern flair, and yet in the Mediterranean: Passau makes career - as a popular stop on the way to Vienna or Budapest. Here is a short visit too little for the town with Italian flair.

 

Passau - The ships at the quay of the Danube Promenade in Passau have names like "Bellissima" and "Prima Donna". You drive to Vienna, Budapest and even into the Danube delta on the Black Sea. Some of them even manage to Koblenz and Dusseldorf. Around 214,000 passengers were the authorities in the past year. "Passau is a global concept," says Mayor Jürgen Dupper not without pride, "check here more passengers than in many German deep-sea ports."

With the fall of the Iron Curtain was the Danube as a major European waterway attractive. Passau in Bavaria in the southeast to the border with Austria has benefited from it. "1992 cruise ships made 181-times found in the past year have 1751-times," said city spokeswoman Susanne Gabriel. "For this year, more than 1900 reported planting."

Despite the tourists remained in the old town atmosphere preserved. Passengers praised the Mediterranean-style flair. No wonder, because here were Italian builders are at work. In the center stands on the highest point of the St. Stephen's Cathedral with its onion towers. He was from 1668 to 1693 was built. At the time of Passau was an important independent prince bishopric - until 1803 The secularization of the clergy disempowered and the city came to Bavaria.

For Passau needs of the visitors little time. Many miss the opportunity for a more detailed inspection. "There are guests, after the arrival proceed directly to the ship and then leave immediately," says Gabriel. "On average, a cruise guest can stay for a night in Passau."

High season is May to September

The Belgian couple Louise and Bernard Mercier, however, wants to stay three days before the ship for good two-way to the Danube Delta test. The man has been particularly pleased with the cathedral: "The organ has 17,774 pipes and 233 registers, it is the largest Catholic church organ at all," he says. The largest pipe is more than eleven feet high, the smallest measure just six millimeters. They can be of 2 May to 31 October 12 clock on weekdays and on Thursdays at 19.30 clock hear. The cruise ships Passau however already in March and go on their trips until the end of December. "Tourist season but May to September," says Gabriel.

Like a ship reaches Passau with its Ortsspitze in the rivers Danube, Inn and Ilz. In the narrow, sometimes steep medieval alleys seemingly takes just a few walkers, as well as on the banks of the Inn. Nice weather can forget the dangers of the Three Rivers city from the water again and again threaten. On one wall of the medieval town hall angezeichnet the maximum heights of the river level reached so far. The last serious flood in 2002 flooded large parts of the Old Town.

Passau with its almost 50,000 inhabitants has a long history of use. Danube port Celtic, Roman fort until 476, Bavarian Herzogenburg, since the bishop's seat 730 and the starting point of the Missionary Austria, 1225 with City rights - which are the main stations. The Prince Bishops settled except its magnificent cathedral A palace and an opera house in the early style, which today serves as the Municipal Theater.

Careers for cabaret

The most beautiful view of Passau Veste Lords offers high above the left bank of the Danube, the former Prince Bishop's seat with a little goes a condition Treppenweg up, it is convenient with "Wolfi", the city tour with a number of increases and Aussteigemöglichkeiten. The castle is a town museum. If you are interested in religious art, must necessarily lead to the cathedral treasury, with its precious liturgical vestments and Gothic panel paintings visit Bernard Mercier recommends.

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In the more conservative Passau began the career of some well-known cabaret artists: Bruno Jonas, Ottfried Fischer and others appeared in the "executioner house" on a small stage in a serving executioner once the medieval building. Hape Kerkeling got here 1983 a prize. Not only students of the University appreciate the tips of the verbal artist against politics and society.

As an oasis for relaxation and dining offers, among other things, "Heilig-Geist-Stift-Schenke" in the center. Attraction is the wine of overgrown spacious beer garden. "Acidic Lüngerl you must try," advises Ludmyla operator from Ukraine, which helps their Bavarian colleagues in the main cruise port on the Danube, the masses of tourists to use. "The guests are an important economic factor," says Susanne Gabriel. For replenishment is ensured. The ships lying close together on the quay to prove it.

Who scared, lost.

Ugly but delicious: Galician barnacles are considered the most expensive gourmet specialty of the Atlantic. But the fishermen, from the rugged sea cliffs scratch, for risking their lives prey - each time their job is a race against time.

 

There is hardly a day when Suso Lista not his friend Jaime thinks. Eight years ago is now, but it comes before it, as if it happened yesterday. A huge wave was as appeared from nowhere and had the 27-year-olds from the black-gray rocks torn. A moment later he was gone, the sea had him fetched easily swallowed. He never appeared again. Jaime was the last in a long line fishermen injured in Corme, a village of 800 people in Galicia, the wetterwendischen province in northwestern Spain. Until now - because everyone here knows that this is not the last tragedy was to be that others will follow.

The people in Corme are very devout, like most in Galicia, like most in Spain. And the stories that are told, are always with the sea to do so. Stories from the Atlantic, the life and life can take, how the mighty God. "We believe in God and the sea," said Suso Lista, 47 years old, a stocky man with a full beard and sailor hat. And already the name of the coast can imagine that the reverence for great people to the whims of the ocean have: "Costa da morte", the death coast.

For 22 years, list as "Percebeiro" as the duck mussel fisherman named. Not that he made the misfortune of his friend had not learned, but for many this is one of the few opportunities in this remote, of unemployment and emigration region ever to earn money. In Spain belong Percebes that falsely Mussels hot, but the crabs are, to the most sought-after gourmet food. They are regarded as the most expensive specialty of the Atlantic. The thicker, the more money they bring, sometimes over 100 euros for a kilo, usually around 20 euros.

Foreign wrinkled, inside flavor

But the biggest specimens grow on the bottom of the deep sharp-edged rock in the tidal zone. There, they sprout clumps instance, feed on plankton that they filter from the water. They look like wrinkled fingers. Even the fishermen say they were ugly things. But they taste wonderful. The tender, lean meat salted hides under the pachyderm elephant skin of the foot, it sits the head of shimmering horn plates.

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AP, DDP, Antje Blinda

Art is very easy.

The motto is "Anyone can be creative" on the farm on Wilstedtermühle Teufelsmoor is painted, carved, hammered, and shaped with the chainsaw. A family of children and parents excited - even if the Hofgetier there are scathing.

 

Family home runs from Hamburg in the winter for skiing in the Alps and in the summer to swim in the South. But the favorite holiday of Louisa, 9, and Justus, 6, takes place every year in autumn, in cold, wet northern Germany, 35 kilometers northeast of Bremen. "The week at the
Wilstedtermühle yard for our children is the most beautiful in the whole year, "says Ragna home," that both respond like a shot, if I ask. "

This is the welcome there sometimes scathing. Geese like to welcome guests upon disembarking from the car, and who is not committed to a branch or at least the travel bag is fighting, according to the will ever caught. Welcome to a very lively farm, but not just poultry, ponies and sheep offers, but also - and this is special -: art to Participate. The farmhouse on the outskirts of the devil Moors, close to the artists and places Worpswede Fischerhude combines rural idyll with colorful creativity.

In the 150 years old Mühlenhof, a proud white house with red shingles, the art classes. While surrounded by meadows, ponds, climbing trees, table tennis and pool hall farm distraction for sure, does the creative work strictly to the schedule of the art teacher Andrea Schloen. "At 10 clock I start with the painting for children," says the boss of the farm, 11 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. clock are the adults turn. " Afternoons may be small and large together outside on the cobblestones in front of the barn sculpt.

Spotted, glued, painted with fingers

"For me, each painting," says Ms. Schloen, "with or without prior knowledge." The 66-year-old, who until the beginning of 40 art education and studied for years before the family headed craftsman, is a large slender lady, also a painter in overalls yet elegant effect. "I am always on fathers and mothers, in professional leadership roles, and are willing to entrust my instructions."

Almost looks like this: Schloen leads the newcomers initially by gallery-like spaces in the main house, whose walls, hundreds of very different pictures hang? abstract and figurative, polka, glued or painted with fingers. Each guest will spontaneously say what he liked so well that he would desire, like myself to try. "Taste is subjective, quality is an objective," is Schloen motto. Then we give you the necessary materials for his picture out and the associated technology explains: acrylic, watercolor or oil, graffiti or collage, linocut and monotype.

Once started, inspired Schloen diminished? self-critical about children? with their contagious enthusiasm. Overzealous in turn, are encouraged, but it first small to tackle. Which adults still know how difficult it is to a large area uniformly auszumalen with paint? "The kids always amazed that their parents sometimes do what only they themselves in school and they have held for Kinderkram."

Afternoon, then all meet at the farm. In the shadow of the old oak tree trunk blocks are ready for it to carve wood or stones to sand? Soapstone, alabaster, marble, limestone. It crunches and grinds, hammering and knocking circulates between the water bottle. Sculpting calls unsuspected muscles. Again and again, knocking a child from the grinding dust and swings into a lot of climbing the tall trees on the outdoor workshop. "Sculptures made of aerated concrete makes us the most fun," says the Hamburg home, studied graphic artist myself, "we are behind eingestäubt the miller who wirtschafteten here. Such pigs can be used at home do not do."

Excursion to the villages Artists

Suggestions for their own production can be seen in the artist villages of the area pick: the Heinrich Vogeler-Museum in Barkenhoff in Worpswede or in the Otto-Modersohn-Haus in Fischerhude. There you can even go to eat dinner. Because Schloen guests must cook for himself, lived in seven large, simple apartments with own kitchen. To explore the area, you can bike in the neighboring village to borrow.

Court Wilstedtermühle provides not only family vacation: There are also creative weekends for adults only. Since then the lady of the house cooks himself Vollkornkost tasty with herbs from the garden.

Children can turn in the summer holidays without parents. Per week, the old farmhouse holiday for every ten children are home to the two or three in a room to sleep. You are a guest at Schloen couple, whose own three children have grown up already. Even for them, there's every day, art lessons, pony rides and swimming? as for all guests. Only when there is nostalgia for a special treatment: "Because nehm 'I am the child in the womb," says Schloen, despite a certain North German Resolute just for younger guests is very popular.

Speaking of the very young: They are not necessarily due to the high arts. For first-graders from Hamburg Justus go again this fall by only one: "boating between the geese!"

Among vultures.

Powerful waterfalls, adrenaline kicks in suspension bridges: A hike in the Pyrenees in France and Spain is more spectacular than the low influx of tourists can be expected. Visitors often have large parts of the trail itself - or share it with a couple of bears and birds of prey.

 

Sainte-Engrace - It is a long and shaky, the gaps in the wooden beams you can see in a 150 meter deep gorge. Who the suspension bridge of wood in the French Pyrenees to use, it must be reasonably free from giddiness. The farther you are in the middle of the bridge moves, the greater ranges of the narrow bridge.

When you look at the depth of veteran hikers will also slightly sluggish in the stomach. Italian carpenters have the bridge built in the twenties, when the Pyrenees villages have been largely isolated. Today it serves as a starting point for hikes in the Basque country and in the former province of Béarn.

The region is known for the berets, the other for the béarnaise sauce - both wrongly. The beret, the Kurt Tucholsky an ice bag with a fabric top Zippelchen "has called, actually comes from Béarn. The shepherds were the first there, which the borderless knitted hats and then walkten. But only on the head of the Basques were known to the cap, and finally to the worldwide recognition of the French character. The béarnaise sauce, was invented in Paris and after King Henri IV, who from the region came Béarn.

These and other anecdotes told Jean Soust, the guides, while it constantly goes up the hill. Who wanders in this area, you can not splurge with altitude. Instead of craggy mountain peaks are just a green hill to see where it goes, but steep. "There is hardly a mountain range in Europe, where such a diversity of species has received," says Soust, pointing to the flowers by the wayside.

Blooming mountain landscapes

Later in the Pyrenees summer bloom in all colors: First yellow of the gorse bushes, then the purple of the heather, thistles to magenta, royal blue gentian and white daisy.

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Unlike the Alps, the Pyrenees, so far from mass tourism. Two long-distance through the mountain chain crossing the border between France and Spain and also a watershed is. To mark, there were years of controversy.

"Since the Basque has shown tenacity," says Jean. First were the red and white dashes on the rocks over a half a meter long. "The one could almost see from a plane, which has upset conservationists," he says. Finally, they were felsgrau overpainted and by replacing discrete new bands - a lot of effort for a relatively small number of hikers in the region and also a sign of how much the people in preserving their land is situated.

It goes to a mighty waterfall with a beech, whose leaves the sun in countless spots of light dissolves. Above the tree line winds along an old Hirtenpfad up the mountain meadow. Violent bell is heard.

It sounds like the beginning of a Catholic high office, but there are just hundreds of sheep. They eat their way to the aromatic herbs fed to the Pyrenees cheese its particular taste. Somewhat later bimmelt it again, but this time there are stocky horse with long Zottelmähnen the bell around the neck wear, so that their owners find them easier.

Evening wine by the fireplace

For accommodation there are many gites in simple guesthouses, the evenings offer regional dishes. Didier Constance Espondaburu operates the farm near the village of Sainte-Engrace. "Today, there are eggs in Cocotte lamb with chanterelles and selbstgesammelten sheet cake with fresh blackberries," he announces to his guests and radiates with pride. While wonderful aromas from the kitchen draw, it is with a glass of red wine before the fireplace beautifully endure.

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL-QUIZ

AP, DDP, Antje Blinda

From glaciers to palm trees.

About 196 bridges, he must go - to 55 tunnels crossing: The Bernina Express provides amazing. The Swiss narrow, between Chur and Tirano struggling through the Alps, is one of the steepest railways in the world on the move.

 

Chur - raging mountain streams, rugged peaks and beautiful landscapes: A ride on the Bernina Express through the Alps is a journey of contrasts. From Chur in Switzerland, the train is bolted to the more than 2000 m high Bernina Pass. And while the passengers nor the 4049-meter-high Piz Bernina marvel, it is already steeply down into the mild climate of the Valtellina in Italy.

Besides the change of scenery can also train with a record interest: With seven percent slope is the Bernina Express to the steepest railway tracks in the world, without gears, cables or other engineering tricks constraints.

In only four hours driving the narrow track today from Switzerland to Italy. It is not a simple rail route: In addition to the slopes, there are 196 bridges and 55 tunnels. Among them are designs that are also mountains and train lovers fascinated by the panoramic windows allow.

Before Engadine village Filisur for example, ends one 136 meter long viaduct suddenly in the middle of a vertical cliff dropping - and the Express is rolling in the tunnel further. In Brusio screwed to the train on a circular viaduct in the valley - would be different from the large height difference is not to master. Since the summer of 2008, the railway line on the list of World Heritage. To reserve seats, it is highly recommended.

Palms and pizza instead of peaks and glaciers

The train over the Bernina Pass was from the outset for tourists. When 2500 construction workers in 1902 to the hard work made tüftelten the engineers on a long stretch with little tunnels, because the traveler should be the beauty of the Grisons and Lombardy marvel.

The viaducts were built for a more elegant effect even slimmer pillars and arches narrower. Even the smoke from steam locomotives were spared the passengers: The line was electrified from the outset. Whirrs So the train is still quiet in the villages. Only in narrow curves, it squeaks in, with large gradients even in quiet moans.

Was the route, which includes a branch line to St. Moritz offers a summer fun initially, it caused the Second World War for reprogramming. At the pass, the rails 1944 so moved that even in the winter could drive trains. The Bernina Pass the train station in 2253 m altitude is also watershed and language border.

Almost unreal beautiful effect in good weather, the glaciers and peaks far beyond the tree line. White clouds veil will hang on the icy mountain lakes to pass. But train drivers alone are not here. Hikers and mountain bikers like to cross the tracks. Who wants to climb even higher, has at some stations also connected to cable cars.

Who will sit on the train, goes further in the direction of Italy. In orchards and vineyards zuckelt past the train and in the villages of the valley Poschiavo finally tram on the street. At the churches differs a slender Campanile the bulbous onion towers on the Swiss side. The first palm trees line the route. At the terminus Tirano arrived, smelling it on the station forecourt after pizza. Pending the return remains time for a wine tasting with a young Valtellinese, ham and parmesan cheese appetizers.

Journey times between Chur and Tirano upside of the Bernina Express once a day in each direction. The trip takes 4 to 4.5 hours. Depending on the season are also trains from St. Moritz and Davos to Tirano.

Prices: One ticket Chur-Tirano and back will cost 71.25 euro, the single journey in each direction of 35.63 euros.

Information: Rhaetian Railways, telephone number from Germany: 0041/81/288 43 40, daily 7-19 clock; Internet:
www.rhb.ch

The most beautiful ski in the Alps.

It is worth the long hours Ascent: The readers of the magazine "Alpin" have their favorite ski elected. Included are some of the most famous Alpine peaks - but bronze is a surprise to a comparatively mere mountain in Bavaria.

 

1. Wild Peak, 3772 meters - Ötztal Alps

And the Oscar goes to?

... Austria, more precisely, to the Tyrol. Where else, if not into the land of the mountains. By far, the Alpine reader Oetztaler Wildspitze the most perfect ski mountain elected. And for good reason.

Franz Maier Falter

She is a queen, no doubt. While in her realm, the dominion is not fully exercised. Too many celebrities, the peak in the Ötztal mountains, than that the game itself on top all the other would collect. There are hundreds of ski mountains: large, small, long, short, steep and difficult, but enjoyable and technically easy targets for beginners. Almost exclusively, the summit beyond the 3000 mark. At well over 300 Ötztal peaks can also be in the winter and spring in the thin mountain air sniff.

FOUND IN ...

Alpine - The Mount Magazine

Issue 3 / 2009

Contents
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Over it all stands out - at least a little - the Wildspitze out. With its 3772 meters high north summit Hood (the South Summit stretches only two meters high up less), it is the highest in the Tyrolean Gupf country - at least from the North Tyrolean perspective, because the Südtiroler refer this to the Ortler.

Hardly a comparable level summit is so comfortable and at so many different routes to reach technically simple as the Oetztaler Wildspitze. From Vernagt and Breslauer Hütte by Taschachhaus and Pitztaler glacier run the routes radiating from the summit almost together construction. Sooner is also still on the Braunschweiger Hütte started - but this way is quite out of fashion, it should be possible but across the Pitztaler ascend slopes.

Fast-day tour, walkers - and are now the most - come from the Pitztal Wildspitze. What to grandfather's time, a vast western weekend tour almost alpine character, is using the Pitzexpresses and subsequent lifts to Mittelbergjoch to become half-day tour. Easy prey for those who are on the Saturday evening sports show again at home want to be. Accordingly, it is often Wildspitz growth is underestimated, especially since the subsequent mega-descent on the bottom of the wildly rugged Taschachferner also pleased by the Pistenskifahrern used.

ALPEN-QUIZ

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  Have you heard of "Mrs Montblanc" or Sennentuntschi heard? The Alps lie in front of our doorstep, but they are full of secrets. Test your knowledge in the mountain travel blogs from Quiz ONLINE!

We have a whole weekend this time for the Wildspitze time to provide us with the majesty of the due respect and get closer to a nice round trip to undertake. Starting point for those perhaps not quite contemporary, but eventful trip is a side vent in the Ötztal. Choosing the Vernagthütte as a base, so the figures are seven to eight hours to hike the highest peak in Tyrol respectively.

With the finely detailed, and are fairly lightweight (so there's something!) Tourencarvern is also pretty easy. After an overly rustic night in the overcrowded camps Vernagthütte tracks we are still sleeping at night time on the flat Vernagtferner into Brochkogeljoch.

We reach the gentle Peter Einschartung between the tip and the Brochkögeln with the sunrise - what an experience that the mountain belongs to us alone. An icy wind dust around the summit, on a plateau, is over the peak-Firntrapez - and for the last few meters above the Südwestgrat even need the crampons out of the backpack.

Arrival

By car: From Munich via Garmisch - Mittenwald (B 2) - Zirlerberg or Fernpass to Imst Pitztal and into or
Ötztal. Public transport from Innsbruck: Innsbruck train Arlberg - Bludenz to Ötztal station. Bus to Vent. From the bus service Imst Pitztal, www.postbus.at

Talorte / Info

Vent, 1894 meters; Ötztal Tourism Office Vent, Tel +43 57 200260, www.vent.at
Mandarfen, 1675 meters; Tourism Pitztal, Tel +43 5414 86999,
www.pitztal.com

Best Time

March to May.

Mountain Guides

Vent Mountain Guides office, tel +43 5254 8106, www.bergfuehrer-vent.at
Alpine Club, tel: +43 5413 85000, www.club-alpin-pitztal.at

Bergbahn

Pitztaler Gletscherbahnen, Phone +43 5413 86288, www.pitztaler-gletscher.at

Huts

Vernagthütte, 2755 meters, DAV-section of Würzburg, in early March to mid-May, hosted, phone +43 664 1412119 lodge, by Vent 860 meters height, 3 1 / 2 hours; Breslauer Hütte, 2844 m, DAV Sektion Wroclaw, open winter space Valley Tel +43 5254 8153, www.venter.at, from the mountain station of the chairlift Wildspitze 280 meters in altitude, 1 hour.

Literature

Rudolf and Siegrun Weiss: ski Oetztal - Silvretta, Rother Berg Publisher, 2007.

Map

Alpenverein card, 1: 25,000, sheet 30 / 6 with ski routes, the Ötztal Alps - Wild tip.

The skis are we refer to the South Summit with, because we want to exceed Wildspitze. To do this we grope at überwechteten first connecting to the slightly higher Firnkuppel across the North Summit. There is Alpinism concludes and to our surprise, has also put the wind. So break out bush, thermos bottle and enjoy the unique moment. Finally, we sit Mutterseelenallein on one of the most popular Skiberge in the Eastern Alps - and with the (almost) clear sky. Only when we depart in the direction Rofenkarferner, forming Taschachferner down there on the hundreds to storm on the throne.

About an extra steep curve we back down to the northwest and cross the northern wall round. Taschachferner on down there, the long caravan then. Many a tear has to have the first gaps, as we gaily on Rofenkarferner entschwinden. Lonely mountains, surrounded only Summit, no sound, only two old tracks, which we are excited by direct descent to Vent follow. The Queen has sent us a private audience granted - an exclusive and unforgettable.

THREE increase to the favorites ALPINE SKI TOURING MOUNTAIN OF READERS

Wild Peak, 3772 meters / Mittelbergjoch

Total time: 2 1 / 2 hours
Altitude difference: 700
Difficulty: Medium

From Mittelbergjoch about the most unpleasant verblasenen slope starting at the Taschachferner cross. There anfellen and direction
Southwest, always on the rear of the striking Nordgrat to Broch Kogel, between the fracture zones of the Far increase. At about 3400 meters, turn on a plateau sharply east. First flat, then increasing slope at the foot of the Südwestgrats Wildspitze - Ski Depot. With or without crampons to the highest point. Run over the Taschachferner and by Taschachtal after Mandarfen.

Mitterkarjoch

Total time: 3 hours
Altitude difference: 930
Difficulty: Medium

From the hut by the Mitterkar and north-west - to the final very steep - the Mitterkarjoch, 3468 meters. Beyond the flat glacier to the northeast to the ground track from the Pitztal glacier climb.

Brochkogeljoch

Total time: 4 hours
Altitude difference: 1020
Difficulty: Medium

From the hut in a wide arc to the northeast on the Vernagtferner.
Towards the east and northeast on the Brochkogeljoch, 3423 meters, and over the flat area north of the glacier below the Broch Kogel over, crossing the track from the Pitztal glacier rolls in - about them to the summit and ski storage.

ALPINE TIP

Which of the Vernagthütte comes down to Vent and wants to elect a direct route across the Mitterkarjoch and Breslauer Hütte or via the Rofenkarferner to Vent.

Braunlage nominates first nude luge champion.

The start on bare skin, the body only panties and scarf in Braunlage rodelten Fast Nackte before 12,000 spectators at the bet. A huge success: The mayor was happy about one of the biggest events in the Harzer spa.

 

Braunlage - naked through the snow on the lawn of City Hall Braunlage on Saturday evening was the first international naked luge champion of all times determined. The winner was the 19-year-old Robert Gottschalk from Hambühren in Celle, as André Gierke, spokesman for the broadcaster RTL 89.0, blogs ONLINE said. He could at the end of 1000 euro bonus victory to go home.

Gottschalk, on the chest of the race was 33, had complained to the event of the private radio station in several pre-final and final heats against its 40 competitors prevailed. The 30 male and ten female sled champion from applicants were about 300 brave herausgelost, who volunteered were registered for competition.

At temperatures around zero degrees rushed in dressed in black panties Rodler to around 12,000 spectators over. Compulsory clothing at the 89-meter-long runway included helmets, gloves and shoes, scarves were not prosecuted as an offense. The grand finale, in which the last five against each other had been found in floodlights and it was finished at 19.30 clock. Except as small bruises cuts and abrasions over the almost naked participants competition healing and healthy.

The spa director of Braunlage, Christian Klamt, was the success of the event with enthusiasm: "It is one of the biggest events that we probably Braunlage ever had." For a large radius are visitor arrived. "So many would not expect." Even the radio stations had only 2000 to 3000 visitors are expected, Gierke said. The event was in the resort have been endorsed with enthusiasm. After the huge success would be the nude luge championship continue.

The resin seems to nude promotional events to bring about the tourism in the region boost. In two villages in the south of Saxony-Anhalt since late last year the establishment of a
Naturist trail discussed. The kick gave the reflection Harzer HVV Transport Association.

Drag Queen Karaoke.

In the southern seaside resort of Brighton celebrating the gay scene itself: the "Pride beside the Seaside" to invite the pubs karaoke evenings with drag queens and tattooed talent. The finale is a leap into the icy English Channel.

 

It's "Pride Time" in Brighton. In the winding Pub Queen's Arms "is just a general admission to get worse. On a small stage two English ladies with pretty male voices. Both look very much like Las Vegas and Berlin, with drag queens visually not much in common. Your zotiger humor is not so different - if you have to understand the jokes.

The "queer" scene of Brighton, just 60 minute train from central London, offers year-round at the weekend for many gays and lesbians from the capital, the best entertainment options. In addition to celebrating the community - which officially and because of perceived societal similar situation, all citizens of Earth bisexual and transgender people are - even twice a year since 1992 with the "Summer Pride" and because of the great success for four years with the "Winter Pride "in March.

Not only drag queens with names like Miss Hap, Betty Lola Lasagne Swollocks and then push on the small stages of the pubs. But pretty much every guest is trying to be a self-cast on the karaoke stage. Among the participants are surprisingly many real talents, but also courageous yowl, the friendly beklatscht be. Eben still blares an unknown-the Amy Winehouse hit "Valerie" on high "Britain's Got Talent" level, then follows the sinking of the Titanic "with" My heart will go on "by an enthusiastic man full of tattoos sung.

"It's just a bit of fun" so tolerant of the comment by Pete from Manchester, who with his partner Chris regularly comes to the Pride and fear has, on a whim, even at times the stage to land. The locals experience both as a "very, very friendly and courteous." The fact that this profoundly British politeness code also maintained when a part of society, the city turns on its head, is no less British and agrees cheerfully.

Andreas from Hamburg has seen little of the former Brighton Pride of the nineties to the huge event was that he is today. The mood, the extroverted Mittvierziger as a suitable home - and therefore happy again. Not least because of the karaoke nights, whose relaxed and "trashy" atmosphere he enjoys.

Chinese pleasure palace by Prinny

Brighton & Hove, so the official name of the twin city, is the queer citizens and visitors accustomed: She holds the largest share statistically openly gay and lesbian residents live, and residents in Great Britain. And the shape their own districts, Kemp Town - in a prime location above the coastal road Marine Parade. The Royal Pavilion in the back you would go through St. James's Street, and has the choice of restaurants, bars, pubs and shops are relevant in Brighton's' Gay Village 'all close together. Is the "Star Inn" closed due to overcrowding, it's holding on to the "Marine Tavern" or the "Queen's Arms".

Fun living in Brighton has a 200-year tradition. Today it is often the gay, the trends, was once a Royal heterosexual father of the "easy way of life". In 1800 and lived Prinzregentenplatz bigamist George (nickname Prinny) here his dream of bigamy with a Bürgerliches Catholic faith. To this end, he settled in the heart of Brighton's famous Royal Pavilion built, decorated like a Chinese and Protzmann castle.

Prinnys prudish successor to Queen Victoria moved their summer residence on the chaste white chalk from the Isle of Wight southern coast. Later in Brighton, a mile-long pebble beach promenade, the 550 meters into the sea standing Palace Pier (now an amusement park on stilts) and a London-like district called The Lanes added.

For Summer Pride 2008, the city was so filled with members of the community that they are "wall to wall full of gay men was, as Pete says. Including many Germans and French. The hotels in the city were fully booked, the Canadian kd lang traveled for a concert. From the windows of the houses hung massive rainbow flag, which has been an international symbol of the scene are. Already at the entrance to the car traffic on major road closures out parade.

Already by 22 clock in the small-talk deadlock

The winter festival, this year of 7 to 15 March, although climate-related needs without the parade live, but a week numerous events. The highlight is a travesty-show and the Drag Queens moderated karaoke evenings.

There are quiz nights, bingo evenings and go out the normal program in the pubs of the city. Even a naked swim at Brighton's "Nudist Beach" is planned, despite the winter cold. And it would not Great Britain, would not the idea of the charity event shape. Instead, admission fees, the organizers expect many to make a donation to the Pride rifle. The money will support projects of the community.

In the days of "Pride in Brighton should be an evening flirting in queer neighborhoods not too late to start. Axel, 39-year-old tour guide from Berlin, was last summer with a tour group here. At night he hides in the club like "Bulldog" in front of his guests. That attractive males by 22 clock already as blue as the German daheim by 3 clock morning, however, is an obstacle, he says: "Flirt with a drunk times! Small Talks lead as gladly talk in technical blind alleys."

Kraxeln as Iceman.

One of the most famous climbers was a Stone Age man: Before about 5300 years, Iceman in the Austrian mountains to hunt. Hikers can access a one-week tour his alleged routes - and hidden gems to discover in the Alps.

 

He had no other choice. We do this voluntarily. Accordingly, should now also no more than the thick gray clouds complain, which is now so deeply over the Kleinwalsertal depend that we feel that we could compare them with our umbrella tops broach. That is not even necessary, it pours anyway. For him, the former certainly a bigger problem: The leggings of fur in a flash of water and grass cloak had not determined Imprägnierschutz. The toes, which with coarse stitches sewed together from brown boots and deerskin stuck, were ruckzuck cold.

Here it is not, in his large backpack is not at least a fleece pullover, a softshell jacket, breathable underwear and a rain jacket has. If he does not have a thing or two about garment has withdrawn. It rains, yes. And the fierce wind whistling around the Widderstein around. But we do not want to walk like the famous Stone Age man, but on its tracks. "Ötzi the Alps" is the one-week tour of the Kleinwalsertal Bergschule organized.

FOUND IN ...

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Issue 3 / 2009

Contents
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www.alpin.de

"A modern outdoor hiking clothes or would have the capacity Ötzis while hunting or crossing the Alps have significantly improved." It was just an expensive series of tests from the Hohenstein Institutes need to ensure that humanity came to this realization. Had the scientists but just wrapped in thick Gore-Tex clothes in heavy rain over an Alpine pass, and then at the museum in Bolzano, the equipment of Ötzi only visual, they had a lot of work can save.

Sun is now officially recognized that we are better equipped than Iceman. And still freeze. In contrast, the only movement, but Mountainguide Helmut Eberle sets right at the start of the tour to stop in Gemsteltal On.

He bends down and lifts a little greasy-green stone, which is hardly longer than one of his finger tendons. "Radiolarit," he says, and the little stone reckt like a winner's trophy in the air, so that all are aware of the group. "Hardness six. Unheimlich important for Ötzis then." They made this tool, knives, saws, arrowheads. Meanwhile, the group went to its knees in nullkommanix everyone finds a piece Radiolarit.

Stone finds while hiking

Kleinwalsertal the scientists write in the Stone Age plays an important role in the national supply of the steel-hard rock. Mountainguide Eberle has already aufgelesen specimens in which very fine grooves are incorporated. From a human hand. Prior to 4000, 5000 years ago. "Such a fund is great." Detlef Willand, a good friend of Eberle, is it even succeeded in Kleinwalsertal demonstrate a scientific sensation: He has discovered a mine in which our ancestors in the middle Stone Age have Radiolarit dismantled. To date, the world of scholars assumed that the people of that time in rivers after Radiolarit and searched and Co. until 2000 years later on the clever idea came to the rock trimmed.

ALPEN-QUIZ

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  Have you heard of "Mrs Montblanc" or Sennentuntschi heard? The Alps lie in front of our doorstep, but they are full of secrets. Test your knowledge in the mountain travel blogs from Quiz ONLINE!

The mine is now just about us, unfortunately, not accessible without extensive climbing. But this place, we have ensured that the "Alps Iceman" even exists. Willand Eberle and felt encouraged by the findings in the Kleinwalsertal and meticulously worked out a route, the Iceman and Co., with high probability, have chosen to move from north to south to be drawn.

The Stone Age tour of our walking group gives a lot of advantages. After the rain, we can in the evening in the hotel room to enjoy a hot shower, the wet stuff in the spacious room to spread and dry in the morning doubles entgegenschlummern. Not that our Mountainguide a luxury fanatics would. But we are moving with the same tactics as Ötzi: on flat passes and yokes and before dusk descend again.

The gold of the Vikings.

If the light after the long winter night returns on the Lofoten Islands, it is peak season for fishermen. With the first rays of the sun also comes the Skrei - cod. And this is how to Viking times of greatest abundance on the islands in the Arctic Ocean.

 

Steinar Larsen was six years old when he first a mighty cod in the throat and attacked him with a single, clean cut the tongue separated. The ranked it on a steel mandrel to the other, with whom she later their journey to the Delikatessläden applies all over the world should be. He was nine when he began helping his father, the heavy, bloody plastic tubs from the boat on the hoist to investors, and not eleven, when he was on the slippery planks ausrutschte into four degrees and cold water of the harbor basin slipped.

At the age of 14 he knew all the nodes and could smell when the herring vorbeizogen. And with 18 Steinar Larsen knew his life would be one with fish. Only fishermen like his father he never wanted to be. "The sea," says Steinar, occurs by a rubber boot on the other, plucks the white beard and nods have come out to Vestfjord, where the foam crowns in the wind dancing. "I have too much respect for the sea." So he stayed on shore and there made of cod, the other outside began to crown.

"Goodbye, poverty", they say, on the Lofoten Islands, where the nets are full and when in March over the aroma of dried fish in the air: "That's the smell of money." The cod is the currency in Norway's North Atlantic coast, and he will give the year its structure.

The cod, and then there is the sun. On 6 January it rises again for the first time on the fjord, a milky-turbid disc, for a moment. "On the same day," says Steinar, "breaks the cod from the Barents here, for spawning." Skrei named him the Vikings, the traveling fish. And nobody had the Vikings in March fear, because they were then always in Vestfjord to Skrei ten thousand times from the water. The gutted fish tied it to the tail fin together in pairs and hievten him on wooden racks, where he remained until the summer.

Lofoten-Stockfish first quality for Milano

"We fly to the moon," says Steinar, "but the cod dry we still like the Vikings." In addition to his red-brown house at the port depends on the sky full of fish, heavy, wet and bloody, guarded by stuffed oilskins in Orange, which should scare cormorants. "The March", says Steinar, "is a good month to fish up. There is hardly any frost, but the flies are still asleep." In June, his goods from the racks fetch wood, then by four-fifths lighter, no longer pale blue, but bright yellow as tobacco, dry, leathery, with a pungent smell of ammonia and Tran.

And then send the Steinar Skrei again on the trip. Sorted by trade classes - Ragno, Westrem Magro, Grand Premier, Hollandese, brake - airtight wrapped verschnürt and go by air to the south. The Lofoten-Stockfish top quality, come to Palermo and Florence, Venice, Pisa, Genoa and Milan. "Milaaaano," says Steinar and Tscheeenova ", as it would be the language with which he has become great.

Italy. Never has it been since. Where's cod is eaten, he knows from the fish traders who annually arrive at the "stoccafisso" Born to be verified. Long he knows the recipe: In Umbria, basting with the watered-Skrei with dried prunes and raisins, in Friuli with pine nuts and olives, in the Veneto loves it alla vicentina with pesto and polenta.

Mediterranean meets the North Atlantic, where Steinar Stockfish in Italian cooking casseroles, encounter two worlds: one where the crickets sing, sonnensatt where it fennel, rosemary and smells dolce vita, and a like carved from hard rock full of blue, cold air, lapped by Tang and drift. Bar jeder loveliness these islands. The Lofoten Islands, an estimated 20,000 pieces stone, nine of them inhabited, soar 200 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle from the North Sea - they never have anyone made easy.

Never make compromises the sky

In winter and summer lichtlos without night, the weather is fickle and unpredictable, dangerous sea. In the morning it is clear and still in the fjord as a dark green jelly, it rages at noon in front of the harbor foamy. Know 16 different words for snow here, the times from the front, and like needles in his cheeks to drill, sometimes it is heavy and wet from the top. Never make compromises the sky, either, he is from a blue, which stings the eyes, or a cloud sea in anthracite, a leopard pattern, or a lilac-colored sunset.

Many are left in the last few years, as Steinar three daughters. "Study in Oslo now," says Steinar and: "You have to connect them." In Unstad, on the Atlantic coast are only 15 of 300 people because he says that the government and now a training ship from the island of Store Molla has set, after being Digermulen: "For two students. Just so the family stays. Kostet half million kronor in the year. " Steinar And the lips moved as if he Stockfish conversions.

ON TO ONLINE blogs

Tysfjord: Where to draw the killer (31.01.2005)

Norway: We are children of Givær (06.08.2007)

Norway quiz: Are you eingenordet?

Iceland Westfjords: Symphony of the water (13.08.2008)

Tour in Reykjavik harbor: What eats Iceland? (10.07.2008)

Photo Series: With the sun comes the Skrei

There are others. In summer, when the big cruise ships in Creating Sörvagen, Svolvaer Stamsund and have the students on some days. Because then, the coaches not to day visitors on the islands to drive. From June, the Lofoten Islands off north sea and the white-spotted konfettibunt beach towels and sun loungers. In winter, they were here that long, but it is over. In March, when days north of the Arctic Circle are already longer than in Oslo, Berlin or Paris, come with the cod is now also the tourists.

On snowshoes, visitors walk over frozen lakes, chop holes in the ice, can hook into the dark water. Stroll through the eggshell-colored sand on the beach of Crescent Utakleiv, salt air in the nose, put snails from houses Perlmutt a sword shells and drift wood pieces.

Seeing the sea eagles in the sky to the tangverhangenen seals on rocks in the surf. Get on up to the Touring Munkan summit. Past barren birches, to the very top where the view is on the Lofoten chain, like a huge sawtooth rises from the North Atlantic, wild jagged, freshly snow-covered. In the evening they sit in Sörvagen in Maren Anna, in a Polar beer, cod with beetroot and sometimes even at Wal-carpaccio.

Northern Lights, such as silk curtains

And after dinner, they are out in the polar night and waiting for the Northern Lights. It's like out of nowhere and dance at once over one like a silk curtain in the warm summer wind, almost like a strange being, a bright nebula. The northern flicker, shimmers, switches, Opal times, times such as burning magnesium, Unmatched and disturbing. "Who has seen it once," says Steinar, "come back safely."

Six small fishing huts he has in recent years expanded as vacation rentals for tourists, with heating in the bathrooms and porches, on the harbor view. The first floor of its old warehouse is now a museum dried fish, packed with nets, bone-hard Skrei tool bits and fishermen of all kinds, "Who knows," he says, "how many of cod still coming." Nor is the Atlantic stock - unlike in the North Sea - semi-stable. But the cod, it is too warm, the climate change it can only grow slowly. Steinar says: "A Skrei must freeze."

Outside, on the Vestfjord prefers the "Midnatsol 'past, a ship of the Hurtigruten, with course of Svolvaer and new guests. The sound of heavy equipment carries for miles, and over the water blowing a thin plume of diesel. Perhaps smells money soon no longer only after cod. Perhaps he should open a restaurant, perhaps on a ship.

On investor sits Steinar, plucks the white beard, it tastes of salt, and laughing gulls hears the signal from the "Midnatsol". His life of a fish? Let's see. Let's see what the cold, green sea them.