Journey to Venus.

If the "Alb-Guides" to tell, then again, there is ice age. The nature guide to the Swabian Alb, children on a journey into the past. On the migration experience, the kids also learn the "Venus of Hohle Fels know.

 

Anhausen - Christel Hahn, the mammoths of the Ice Age through the Great formally Lautertal graze see. "Idyllic conditions" had there on the Middle Swabian Jura prevailed for the animals, the landscape tells leader. In entertaining episodes she tells her guests from the life and nature thousands of years ago. The 66-year-old is one of nearly 20 federal nature of Germany (Nabu) Alb-trained guides in the park Geo Schwäbische Alb glacial hikes offer. They offer historical tours for adults and adventure tours for children.

The kids are there by an officer disguised as a lion may be surprised and even tinker with arrows. Hahn leads her guests on a slow journey back into the Ice Age. Lot is in the contemplative Anhausen, past the baroque church at the opposite hill topped by a castle. From above is reflected in the hardwood floor a large Wall Ring, a prehistoric fortress. Even the Celts were here gesiedelt says Hahn.

On the edge of a forest is rock free. There on the brink shine floral species, which is already included in the glaciation was colorful in the sun, with cute names like Cliff Blümchen hunger and Brillenschötchen. You are on the Alb rare to find. A piece below is in the Great Cave Gerber, in which for the typical Alb Verkarstungen are clearly visible.

Flints from the field

The Alb is geologically "like a Swiss cheese," says Hahn adults while the children out on a pitted Kalkfelsenwand climb. It recognizes also the misconception, that it was always terribly cold. "The climate went into the Ice Age coaster." Only a quarter of the earth period had been really cold.

Then displays the images of the migrant's Ice Age finds from the Alb. 2006, researchers in the Vogelherdhöhle in Lonetal a carved piece of mammoth ivory were discovered. In mid-May this year, they presented the "Venus of Hohle Fels, a female statuette made of mammoth ivory. With an estimated age 35,000 to 40,000 years, it is considered the oldest human representation worldwide. Also flints from the Jurassic period, the Alb-Guide is the pebble in tubers may be found. "The subject is still on the fields around," says Hahn.

Their tour has them like any Alb-Guide itself. This creates a "ragbag of insider tips," as spokesman Bernd Fausel says. The Alb-guides also have an educational benefit. You want to show the importance of the cultivation of the landscape.

"We hear more and more farmers, and shepherds will also be no more," complains Fausel and suggests the Wachholderheide behind him, at which crickets chirp in the sun. Sheep summarize here the floor and eat only certain plants, describes Fausel. Sun formed a characteristic vegetation, the man was not to model.

So far, the response to the Alb-guides, since 2001, also tours to other themes, rather subdued. The guidebook, however, hoped that the recent inclusion of the Swabian Alb Biosphere Reserve in the circle of the world's most important landscapes by the Unesco tourism boost. It is worth a visit after Hahn's conviction because of the tranquility while hiking. "You see, if you want, no backpack from behind."

Cult of the cheesecake.

About cheesecakes make no jokes - at least not on El Hierro. Because there are people crazy about the sweet quesadillas, no family goes without ceremony. The drug triggered once an over 100 year old mill high above the Atlantic.

 

If three o clock the afternoon through the streets Valverde goes, it can happen that one is all alone. No car, no one is on, no business has opened. Then sleep Hierros El Capital, with its 1700 people actually have no real city. It is so quiet that you hear his own footsteps can. Indeed, half past two-five o'clock is Siesta, seven days a week - and the siesta is sacred.

Only in a house with cream-colored facade is still working. Outside you can hear it through the open window, scrape and scrape. The scent of new moves on the street. When the wind is favorable from the sea and a gentle breeze blows up, the fragrance meets the half-place, with its hillside terraces, fields and tiny houses on 600 meters above the Atlantic Ocean to the mountains hugs.

It is a sweet fragrance with a slightly smoky flavor. It is a scent, just as it is on El Hierro, the smallest of the Canary Islands. Above the entrance of the house stands in large, black letters: "Fabrica de Quesadillas" - Cheesecake Factory.

"We have no time for siesta," says Marisol Gutiérrez, "otherwise we come with the production does not." Like a schoolgirl, a Abzählreim sings, she wippt from one leg to the other. A quick glance at the clock - time for an interview she did not, she says, "but good, especially if you come from Germany."

2500 cheesecake of the week

It stands at the door of their factory, which actually is not a real factory - at least not in the classical sense, with hundreds of workers, huge production halls and dozens of chimneys from which dense smoke swells. Looking at the building but the size performances of El Hierro, about as big as Dortmund and where everything is manageable and a bit calmer than on the approaching of tourists going on neighboring islands, it fits with the factory very well. Four white-bake cheesecake around 2500 a week. That is a lot of just 10,000 people who live on the island.

GAP AND LOCKE

Benne Ochs

Oliver Lück is to tour Europe. The young bitch Hovawart Locke and his mobile home, he travels first through the Czech Republic, Poland, Estonia, Spain - and then always follow your nose. With blogs ONLINE Lück reported regularly by people and their stories.

Are also regulars here? "Yes," says Marisol Gutiérrez, "All." You do not grin when she says, not even a little bit. There is also no joke, it says it completely seriously. About cheesecakes make no jokes on El Hierro. Because the Herreños are downright crazy about the big saucer dessert. Nowhere in the Canary Islands will spend more per head eaten cake. No family goes without ceremony. There are days, there are customers in long lines to the street and then taken to 24 cartons quesadillas from the factory. The unit price: 1.60 euros.

In her white coat and white trousers Marisol Gutiérrez looks like a nurse. And even the small room where the clientele at a tiny bar is operated, remembers with its gleaming white walls and the cold light of the neon tubes tend to the charm of a sterile Emergency department of a hospital. "We are also concerned with the welfare of people," says the 67-year-old, "they get no cheesecake, it is bad to them." Re not kidding, the doubt, she says seriously.

Cream cheese, tree heather and a hint of anise

And the recipe for the good mood has changed in the last hundred years does not change: cream cheese, eggs, flour, sugar, lemon and a hint of anise. In small tins, the round cake at 180 degrees for 30 minutes in the wood-fired stone oven baked until golden brown. But that's it? There is no secret behind the recipe? Suddenly, the face of Marisol Gutiérrez as from shock. You look skeptical, as if they rob. "You really want to know what our cakes so special?" - Yes, please Señora! - "I agree, competition, we need not fear."

On two ingredients, there is that it is only there on El Hierro: the island of cheese made from cow, sheep and goats, which is directly in large vats in the Cooperative of the shepherds is purchased. And the wood of the tree heather, which grows in the highlands and the quesadillas their typically lends smoky flavor. Marisol Gutierrez points to the giant mountain wood, which is located in front of the house. She says: "A secret does not exist."

In the house, José Antonio holds a wooden slide bread in his hands. His arms are as thick as tree trunks outside. On his forehead have little sweat beads collected. "Something must be Kross and delicate at the same time," he says. Eight hours a day, he stands at the bakery oven, pushing into cakes and brings them out. "A good job," he says. He finds that one can calmly say, after 45 years of occupation.

José Antonio has already the father of the boss worked, even the grandfather he has yet known. This was the beginning of the 19th Century, the idea for the recipe and started the quesadillas in large numbers. In a short time they were the most popular dessert on the island. "In our family has always been all about cheesecake shot," says Marisol Gutiérrez. The large sign above the entrance is not without reason the words "Adrián Gutiérrez y Hijas" - and his daughters.

The belief in the factory

For 50 years, the small woman with the blond hair every morning before the sun. Immediately after leaving school she started in the family business in which she referred to the death of his father as the eldest of the family over. Also helping her sister is still in the factory, her brother, Jaime is responsible for the delivery of the goods in company-owned vans. And Juan, the 29-year-old nephew, the operation will one day lead. "It is safe," she says. The relief in her voice is not heard about. That was their biggest concern: that nobody would give it the tradition in the fourth generation will lead.

Because of El Hierro does not happen much, many of the younger students to flee to Tenerife, the Canary Islands or leave altogether in the direction of Europe. Juan Anders - "believes in the factory," says the boss. Even the kitchen has long since become a hallmark of the island, and also orders from Tenerife, La Palma, Gran Canaria and Fuerteventura, where the quesadillas in the supermarkets, restaurants and bed castles as Canarian specialty sold.

Passat clouds, the road into a milky gray shrouded by which the sun is pale like a full moon shining. Valverde in the weather can change every minute. Did the sun just yet gewärmt, contributes to air is a cold wet with it. Droplets accumulate in the hair and on clothing. You should really continue to work, says Marisol Gutiérrez and wants to go.

Señora, one last question: Do you eat cheese or even yourself, you have passed your appetite? Now, she more than usual. She thinks loud: "Whether I shall ever say?" A little secret, there is but that she rarely has someone been entrusted. "You know," she says, "I've never eaten sweet love. I like much rather salty."

Meditation in the saddle.

Step by step in the Pyrenees: The old smugglers' trails riders balance on the border between France and Spain along. Your Wanderreittour leads over ridges and peaks, through fog and rain - and a fantastic mountain landscape.

 

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port - Once known only farmers and smugglers, the paths through the Pyrenees. And even today, on the mountains of France's border with Spain to be little people, but many sheep, cows and horses. All walk freely around. Passengers on a horse fit well into the picture.

On the night before departure for a week riding in the mountains there is a severe thunderstorm. Severe rain clouds on the edge of the mountains from. Also in the morning drizzles it yet. Wrapped in rain ponchos, the riders saddling the horses. The hoofs resound loud on the cobbled streets of the medieval town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the foothills of the western Pyrenees.

Here begins the stage of the Camino de Santiago etzte on French soil. The famous pilgrimage route across the mountains into Spain. To tick backpacks loaded down with the pilgrims Hufspur. "Also they practice this kind of" traveling at walking pace ", as we are on the horse's back," ponders the Horsewoman Sylvie Chaumien.

The ascent into the mountains is hard work for the horses, the clouds around the riders group. From afar, are tiny white spots in the world to identify greenfield sites - the closer they turn to be a sheep. Your pastor is not far away and unable to pay in accordance with the beret and a wooden stick. "This ride through the French Basque Country is also a journey into the traditions of the Basques," remarked Sylvie at this sight.

Up to eight hours in the saddle

Lunch is on the Col de Munhoa, a peak 1021 meters in altitude, used in the fog. "We have a fantastic mountains surrounded, even if you do not see today," says the Rittführerin Sarah Dubreuil. In such situations only helps the imagination - and wine to warm up. At the end there - typical Basque - Brebis cheese from raw sheep's milk with black cherry jam, and then Basque cake.

From here the path winds through a beech forest in the valley. The rain has the loose soil, the riders get off in order to lead the horses. It is slippery, even for four-legged. "This is not the Champs-Elysees," says Debbie Williamson from the United States. "But it is precisely this challenge I like when traveling on horseback is constantly on the realities of nature to continue."

The group quickly internalized the rhythm of the week, a mountain tour on a horse: mount the morning, five, six and sometimes eight hours on the way, up the mountain, the mountain down. At the sight of the landscape is rapidly meditation in the saddle.

On a day the group rides on the French-Spanish border along which a barbed wire is marked. There is a green border with ferns, flowering purple heather and bell flowers. Far and wide is not a man to see. "In the past, transported here smugglers secretly alcohol," says Sarah, the rides at the top. Today, the drug dealers found new ways long ago.

The Pyrenees feet

Every evening the night horses and riders in a Basque village on the route. Whether Espila, Urepel, Saint-Etienne-de-Baîgorry or Ainhoa: The red and green half-timbered beams and shutters of their houses bite into the eye. The pride of every village is the area for Pelote, a traditional sport and the great passion of the Basques. A training class just loudly.

Although the leather ball quickly through the air shooting, the horse left here. However, the other not from the peace-making walking horse bit nervous as the day that two pigs on the middle of a mountain blocking the path. Because the path is narrow and no one may be, the rider in front of the boar hertreiben.

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Meanwhile the burning sun, the horses follow a path close to the abyss. To stay calm because the riders, the confidence in his horse has - even if the air in their vulture circles. Your view of the mountains and valleys is probably not much better than that of the rider. Then the group reached the ridge of a mountain chain. The wind disheveled the manes. The Pyrenees are the tabs on both sides of the ridge is literally at your feet. The trail leads towards the west, and sparkles in the distance the target: the Atlantic Ocean.

On the next hill, a herd of horses to recognize. "They act like unicorns on a magic mountain," says Sylvie fascinated. The riders come ever closer to them and are soon surrounded by curious Pottok. "This is the old Basque horse race," says Sarah. "These small horses are robust with Urpferden closely related." As in ancient times ponies graze in the semi-original in a mountain landscape that is totally without fences anymore.

Breakfast at the Summit.

A bed at 7.50 meters in height, the breakfast is on the wire: Stefan Simons in the Sologne experienced an overnight stay aloof. In the hexagonal tree civilization seems very far away - and the next shower, too.

 

By the crown of deciduous and coniferous trees flashes the last golden evening light. Birds differs from the crickets chirp, the foliage frames a blue-black sky, the crescent moon hangs in the branches. Tops is all about peace.

About all the tops? No, for a tree-top sound strange noises. Near the forest path, where the tribe in a sweeping oak Astgabeln passes, voices are heard, hear the toast of wine glasses from a dizzy height. At the half way between heaven and earth is a rooted tree. one of eight huts hidden in the "Parc des Alicourts": Here in the bucolic region of the Sologne, south of the Loire and its castles arch, is the latest trend of natural tourism to marvel: "Sleeping in the tree".

Only in France, located in a private palace gardens, lonely domain forests, on farms or campsites, promise the tree houses the "realization of a dream child." Whether overlooking the sea, lakes or in forest areas - at around 20 locations, between Brittany, Normandy, Jura and Massif Central, these huts there, in 2008 with the price of the Tourism Authority awarded.

The alternative accommodation to the tent or bungalow exists as a family version (close to the ground, up to two rooms, from 2 or 6 years), for courageous people (up to 16 meters high, to ascend by stairs or knitting head) or even just reached the end of a " Adventure Trail "(13 meters in height, from 16 years), accessible via bridge or wire.

Toilet paper, candles and pillows

"Are you free from giddiness," is because the first question on arrival at the campsite "Parc des Alicourts". Because our shelter, one of eight cottages, is 7.50 meters in height. We get a backpack in his hand pressed to the basic tourist facilities for the night: sheets and pillow cases, a water bottle, toilet paper, candles and several flashlights.

Ten minutes walk away from the hustle and bustle of the modern four-star place, we reach our dwelling. A solid conductors, protected against slipping, leading to the cabin "The lovebirds". The round building with a pointed, covered with brushwood roof reminiscent of an African lodge or in a tree house in the village of Gauls Asterix and Obelix.

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The first impression on the wooden deck with teak furniture for two people and a lantern: Here was ordinary carpenter work, fit in harmoniously mighty tree forks and additionally with wire cables in the crown tense - here nothing wobbles. The stem protrudes through the hexagonal room, behind the door offers a cozy bed at the height of the round window round outlook attached to branches and foliage.

It increases the open like an umbrella Zwergenhut here dangles the mosquito net. Lovingly-clever details like the window, as the compass is cut, give the impression anthroposophical sawn craftsmen. A second door leads from the Holzeck simple Trockenklo - beside the tub with sawdust. Everything bio.

We have now over the wire with roller luggage in the amount withdrawn, the spread sheet and mosquito net festgesteckt. Now is time for the local red wine, pate, bread and cheese. The crumbs fall between the planks to the bottom - all for the wild boars who would otherwise be fed with corn, so they do not plow fields and golf course.

Dormouse sticks in the roof

The sun drops, it smells of resin, a hornet buzzing over. By dusk insects buzz around candles and lantern, now is the time for anti-mosquitoes tincture and even a glass of the Chateau de Chinon velvety. The Empty Zahnputzwasser we - ecologically correct - in the Bioabtritt rather late, there are the noises of the night - codger, crack by Sub-wood, a dormouse, the sticks on the roof rages.

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What an awakening. Telefongebimmel flickering light rays instead of the reception we awaken in the morning. Cottage, bed and windows appear on the morning sun. Now and down with a towel and soap for showering in the wooden booths running? I spare myself such camp routine: A half liter of water from the cold night of Plastikbuddel poured over the head, is clearly refreshing.

Meanwhile, the breakfast arrived at the end of the wire dangles a basket with two thermos flasks of coffee for the milk, plus orange juice, yogurt, jam, honey, bread and croissants. Breakfast in the Open, treeless high, delicious.

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We enjoy every minute, as against 11 clock has to be packed. Despite the price - 130 Euros per night - must be like in a hostel bed deducted, include a laundry bag and back to create, and the Trockenklo heard by the guests disposal. No surprise from the small print: The tree houses are recommended (summer and winter) explicitly as "huts without water, power and comfort." And as the "ideal exchange environment close to nature, love for a night for two, for a birthday or a moment with the family."

Right. "The lovebirds" remain as truly lifted overnight experience in the protection of the tree crown. Far from civilization Allerwelts standard of hotel and catering chains, including television and mini-bar - but with the romantic charm of an island lighthouse.

Industry in XXL.

A coal-fired power plants, photovoltaic systems and a few wind turbines: The scale for cyclists' Energiepfad "leads right through the Rhenish brown coal. Technology fans discover a region of superlatives - "Think big" is the motto.

 

Grevenbroich - Huge chimneys protrude into the sky, power plants and cooling towers have the size of skyscrapers: the triangle between the cities of Cologne, Neuss and Aachen seems the motto "think big" to read. Fit to adorn the 65,000-inhabitant town Grevenbroich with the nickname "the nation's capital of energy."

Technology fans prefer the industrial buildings in the Rhineland brown coal magically to: About 38 kilometers, the marked Grevenbroicher "Energiepfad" in the places of traditional and futuristic energy along.

The especially designed for cyclists route winds past the lignite power plant Frimmersdorf on photovoltaic systems and wind power is widely visible on the Frimmersdorf height. The head in the neck must involve cyclists stopover at the site of the plant Grevenbroich-Neurath: 170-meter tower boiler and cooling towers in the sky.

2010, the plant "BoA 2 & 3" first generate electricity. Information panels along the route to report on the history and significance of the Rhenish lignite coalfield and electricity generation from brown coal, which account for about one quarter of the total electricity in Germany covers. The land around Grevenbroich, Bergheim and Jülich is the largest lignite region in Europe.

Heavy as 13,000 cars

Above 20 to 12 million years ago the lignite here from dead plants. The first time in larger quantities, it was dismantled in the 18th Century in the vicinity of Brühl near Cologne. Many data and the history of the "brown gold" to know the visitors in the castle at Paffendorf Bergheim, in which the energy company RWE Power AG since 1967, a small information center set up.

From there it's a few miles to the lookout point at the Hambach open-cast mining at Elsdorf. Here, the bucket since 1978 have nearly 400 meters into the soil and promote hineingefressen now annually nearly 40 million tons of brown coal for electricity in nearby power plants Niederaußem, Grevenbroich-Frimmersdorf and Neurath and Hürth-Knapsack.

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From the pulpit of visitors on the outskirts of the village Elsdorf angels are the tiny backhoe. They are - as apparently everything in the Rhineland brown coal - in its duration record: 96 feet high, 240 meters long and weighing 13,000 tons as difficult as some 13,000 cars. Per day can be an excavator up to 240,000 tons of lignite, or overburden promote. Overburden, which are sand, gravel or clay in which the "brown gold" stores. Many thousands of tonnes of it had the bucket in the Hambach opencast first away before it in 1984 for the first time on the lignite layer encountered.

The cleared land is next to the giant mine of Hambach aufgeschichtet and grew out of the flat land of the Jülich Börde to the artificial mountain height Sophie upwards. With 200 meters in height he makes as the world's largest artificial hill for another record in the area of Records. On the numerous trees, including many oaks, beech and alder wooded height Sophie was an extensive road network of around 100 kilometers in length.

Quetsch, hüpf, blubb.

Frog Men's Alpine valley in the Austrian Atterseehaus is a popular diving area - although there is little colorful fish and always fatal accidents. Taster diving When Martin declined Cyris still the allure of the underwater worlds.

 

Water is wet. That divers wet suits and cold may be with this knowledge we must be a beginner once warm. Because there is hardly something unpleasant, as in Frühtau of the mountains in a damp wet suit to fit. The heater in the corner of the locker room says it is good, but it only alleviates the worst torments. "Igitt" and "Bäh" are the comments of the immersion students.

"Close your eyes and clean," advises Robert, our instructor. Because on the eve of the summer brought a break and had the sun behind thick clouds made, the suits on the clothes horse is no longer dry time. The diver is destiny. Professional costs of cold a smile, genuine novices overcome. "After the water, you will not feel like this," says Robert.

The Austrian lakes for beginners are very good. Especially in the Attersee Lake, the largest inland waters of Austria, there are often best viewing conditions. 20-25-meter diver can see. Daylight penetrates to a depth of 30 meters in front. A clear vision helps beginners to get into diving. And of course the fact that - unlike the sea - currents is unlikely. The freshwater areas in Austria are therefore an ideal training ground for newcomers.

At the sight of men in the middle of the frog has mountains in the Salzkammergut region long accustomed. Although the region usually with walking than with diving is associated. The scene could hardly be österreichischer: Baroque church towers, old farmhouses, fragrant herb meadows. And in many a hotel bathroom is located next to the shower cap instead of a modern body lotion tried Franz spirits in a basket - to rub tired limbs.

Legs and hips as a problem area

Also Muskelkater threatens us, because our legs are over the stripes of the extreme wet suits claimed. Especially the legs and hips are proving to - regardless of the body proportions - as a problem. It is the creation of a diving suit actually quite simple: squeeze bottle full and dragging. More is not to do. "You have created the" Robert encourages us, "if you do have on the hips, you are almost there."

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After the last participant in his wet suit is stowed, we run the gen shore. Better said, we falter. Because of the weight belt around our bellies and the air bottle on our back to make our lives difficult. "And that should be fun?" asks a diving Neuling tormented. He was by his wife, an avid diver, using the gift voucher ushered taster. "Wart's ab!" says Robert.

After a brief introduction to sign language and the most important rules of conduct under the water - "Very quiet weiteratmen, just like on land!" - We even invited into the water. None of us was ever more than one lung filling below the water surface, let alone with diving equipment.

"The introduction of country should proceed as quickly as possible," says Robert, "we want the people do not get bored." Add cold water will still not be thrown on two participants, a trainer. The safety standards of diver education in Austria are high. Behind the two groups are driving the guides and keep an eye on the novices. Motion errors will be corrected by bold attacks. We dive at two meters down.

Calmness and Blubb

And lo and behold, what old diving hare routine may be, for a newcomer is a real eye-opening experience: This rest under water. This silence. The underwater world is like a separate universe. The hectic life on the water surface has degenerate with the first fin movements incidental. The bubble of our breathing apparatus is the only sound heard.

That it is in no Atterseehaus colorful coral reefs and other bizarre creatures on display there - regardless. Peace under water is to be the pros and beginners alike in the spell. And of course the weightlessness.

But this does not make it any easy. My Mittaucher, an arid type of almost two meters in length, like a rowing cockchafer helpless in space. His fins caught in his glove and my drive to me regularly in front of the glasses. Our dive guide has his hands full to do it on the right track. After my Mittaucher somewhat brought under control, the guide directs us into something deeper regions. Three meters. Four meters.

Dawns on me why diving can be addictive. Even if at the bottom of the Attersees only stones and shells are to be seen and only occasionally a few fish scurry past - in order to experience this Weltentrücktheit it has paid off in the wet suit to fit, and afraid of any dive to one side.

Again and again in accidents "Todessee"

"Respect yes, but no fear," Robert describes his feelings under water. Because some of the respect for the elements is lost, the pass Atterseehaus deadly accidents regularly. In Austria, the lake is so often in the negative headlines, has been called "Todessee" means. Debt is the depth: Up to 175 meters is in Atterseehaus down. "The euphoria is under water, unfortunately, some of the dangers of forgetting," says Robert. Hubris is the most common cause of death.

He and his colleagues of the other dive schools on Atterseehaus are annoyed because of the discussions. "Some people seem to be too much and then throw a bad light on all the diving," says Robert. Would observe all safety rules, diving is a sport with a calculable risk.

In the last 10, 15 years has been a veritable boom in the freshwater diving developed in Austria. On weekends, be strong around 3000 per day dives Atterseehaus counted. Other districts, such as the Mondsee, the Traunsee or Hallstättersee are within reach.

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We are glad for the time that the exit stairs to reach. Indeed, the unusual movement and the many impressions have made us tired. Backwards - we have finally have the fins on the feet - is the stairs. We have again ground under our feet. We fasten the air bottle and breathe deeply through only once. "I feel somehow as difficult," puffed one participant, "in the water that's so beautifully simple."

Robert takes a look at the beginner and breaks into hearty laughter from: "No wonder you did so even to the weight belt." The dive school pained smiles and exempts itself from the Beschwernis. Some loads are also at Atterseehaus not alone from.

Voices of the Green Lady.

Whiskey, sheep and Spukschlösser: Scotland will all more than just stereotypes. But who could they not like? The ghoulish legends, the Knights' dramatic castles and smoky single malts of the highlands in the north island.

 

Turriff - Allegedly Stinginess is typical for Scotland. But in a tour of the Highlands which is nothing to remember. At least the northeast of Scotland is not stingy with small and large attractions. Tourists learn here: Typical Scots are more whiskey and wool, sheep and castles, ghosts and people for whom all life is.

Fyvie Castle is a castle, all the clichés of Scotland met: The entrance hall is a few feet high, knights armor stand around. On the rear wall flickers an artificial fireplace, hang on another crossed swords, but also a deer antler and a Elchkopf. The stuffed polar bear, however, the seemingly grinning over a stuffed seal also prevents acts here in the northwest of Aberdeen Turriff something exotic.

Fyvie Castle would be the ideal backdrop for a movie about Scotland's shrill locks. The alligator, the mighty Elefantenstoßzahn and the Turtle, on the castle to visitors marked the beginning of their visit, show exactly how the crocodile skin from Sudan that one of the former castle lords an avid hunter and collector was. The castle is also remarkable in other ways - not only because of its more than a hundred rooms in the haunted Flyvie Castle Green Lady, and have done so for centuries.

Smoking, drinking, games

Andrew Collins leads the guests through the stairwell. "It dates from 1599 and is the widest in Scotland," he says and moves on research progress. "It is so great that some early visitors to the horse to be ridden up." The castle is 800 years old, says Collins, "it was in medieval times of the hunting seat of the Scottish king." The bulk of the body but comes from a late time.

In the men's room a buffalo head hanging on the wall and a collection of rifles. The pool table which is two tons. "Here the men indulged their vices," says the Castle Guide: "Smoking, drinking, playing." To see is also the room in which the 16th Century castle of the Lord for his wife always einsperrte because they are four daughters but no son had received. She died in despair and is now still in order: "In the green dress, which she had worn," says Collins.

The castle today is Mr. Robert Lavie, and is not noble. He managed Fyvie Castle on behalf of the National Trust, the British institution, which ensures that many historic buildings are open to visitors and remain. "The Green Lady I've never seen, but the rose scent of her perfume I have smelt," he asserts. "She was also a few in my apartment, has adjusted things and once even turned up the taps."

Lavie chances of ghost apparitions are relatively good: He lived for ten years under the palace roof. On a cabinet is a photograph taken next to it shows Prince Charles. "A super etter type. He was only in October here, and it has really liked him." Lavie and Prince Charles share several interests. These include Scotch whiskey - single malt whiskey, to be exact.

Water for the whiskey

Single Malt is the pinnacle of high spirits from the north of the British Isles - a matter with which you look at solid conviction Lavie best in practical basics. He pours a Balwhinnie On. "Twelve years old," he says charm, "six years in oak and six years in sherry barrels, easy and full of sweetness." Lavie is a filigree silver jug a sip of water in the whiskey before he first saw it sips. His guests are doing the same to him. "The water," he says, "brings the flavors to really apply."

A piece of Turriff is located west of the Highland town of Elgin. With Fyvie Castle has it together, that Prince Charles was there recently: 2008, he has a visitor center opened in Johnston. Johnston, at the end of the 18th Century, is an institution in Scotland and the first choice for everything from wool manufactured. Craig Ware, one of the tour guide, pointing to the white cashmere from Mongolia, which is processed here. "This is camel hair," he says, and puts a little bit flauschiges them around, "wonderfully soft."

Johnston is also behind the scenes look: Visitors may use the division to look at where the wool is spun, the hall where the looms and also the huge washing machines, the oil from the wool wash - with Scottish spring water. The small Elgin, otherwise best known for the majestic ruins of its medieval cathedral, is also on behalf of major brands produced by about Lacoste Ralph Lauren to Burberry. Above all, scarves and blankets come from here.

Elgin is located south of Speyside, a region in the Highlands with very many whiskey distilleries. In Grantown on Spey is home to Graham Harvey, a whiskey connoisseur of a special kind because it uses its flavor not just to drink: Harvey is the chef in the "Craggan Mill". The restaurant in an old mill dating from the 18th Century is known for its cuisine with specialties whiskey - all of Harvey's creations. "It tastes just great," he says. "You only have the courage to try out a lot." Den he has, so guests get haggis soup with a touch of 15 year old Glenfarclas or smoked fish served with a whiskey sauce Tabasco.

Scotland's smallest distillery

No longer in Speyside is Edradour, the chances to be the title of "Scottish distillery schnuckelig" would. In any case, it is the smallest. It is located in Perthshire near the town of Pitlochry. The white building, including the burning house bubbles, are from the street to see. A stream splashes it on a narrow bridge. The farm owners are Andrew Symington. "We are the final Farm Distillery in Scotland," he says, "originated from a farm on which the surplus barley for the production of whiskey was used." The distillery has its fuel license since 1847.

"Today, three burners and myself," says Symington. "Elsewhere control everything via computer, we do this by hand yet." In the whiskey industry, he worked for more than 20 years. Seven years ago he stood with his from Germany-based partner in front of the distillery. "Beautiful here," she said. "Should I tell you to buy?" He asked. "A year later we were back before, this time with the key in his hand."

The distillery can be visited, the room where the barley in a huge "Big Bags" is stored, to the mash tun and the "stills" for distilling.

Symington makes his mature malt extensively. "We use Sherry, Port, Burgundy, Madeira, Masala and drums," he explains. Depending on how long the whiskey is stored and in which the barrel, there are many different variations of the Edradour Malt. In the visitor center, they are bottle to bottle on the shelf, an impressive range, how to demonstrate what is possible to taste everything.

In its seams from all the warehouse space has Symington 700 barrels lie. One of them belongs to his son Andrew Gerhard. Even the little moves with the Bobbycar over the yard. "But if it 21 is, he gets the barrel for a birthday," says the boss Edradour. It can fill 700 bottles - from a then very old, very uncommon drops. This would not only celebrate birthday, but a party like a lock master.

Andrew Gerhard Symington did not even know how good he has it.

From the crusaders to the castle lords.

On cruise ships, it will be very good live. But what if one of the endless sea voyage after years of weary of is? One option: Mr. Burg to be on a 800 year old castle in Franconia.

 

Crusaders are sophisticated guests. People meet here and there, tells of traveling to Africa or the Indian Ocean, is exchanged on the quality of ships, slaps on Masters, met on board people who are already on other ships has to know there is a small and familiar society based on high-quality boats on the oceans schippert. But not only the passengers as it goes.

Stronger is the volume of the lake or the crew. Three months on the "Sea Cloud", year on the "Bremen", a contract next season at the "Hanseatic", a coming and going; Housekeeper, Bartender, shop manager, chef, the professions, there are many.

Not everyone believes the tight space on board, is made in this microcosm, where freedom and confinement are so close together. Who made this, you can hardly leave them, too, there are numerous moments in the stranger, to the exciting encounters. But sometimes it is simply not on board, children want their parents to miss no more, members are to maintain the desire for more space is urgent, Constance is desired. Then, only to settle on land.

FOUND IN ...

mare

The Journal of the seas

Issue No.74
Topic Title: Monsoon
June 2009

Content
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www.mare.de

Some try to miss the sea, the fickle, are unhappy, almost mad yearning and go back to the ship. Not so Christian and Ilona Schneider and her two children. They have become masters castle.

At night by three to roost Abenberg. The courtyard is empty, silence, blackness, a steep staircase, the handrail narrow considerably the height of a sky with many stars from the town below is nothing to see. Is it the imagination, which goes through with a? In this medieval castle in Mittelfranken begs the thought of a ship on gently.

Is it the stories of the evening, talking about the world of the crusaders, the Hermetic, which each ship is unique? So as the self-completed area of the castle Abenberg: a restaurant, a museum, a few rooms in the tower, a thick wall that surrounded the whole thing. Microcosm roost. Fern the rest of the world.

So it must have been in the Middle Ages. We in here, its out there, just like on a cruise ship. The world beyond the railing is alien. Delightful mostly, sometimes hostile. Inside, however, does the same eternal rhythm of sleep and wakefulness, cooking, Auftischen, removing the rhythm of a very orderly life.

A passenger on the couple "Europe" was it that Ilona and Christian Schneider jumped ashore fond presented with a tip that the Frankish castle Abenberg in new tenants need. When the two are actually committed to the years of seafaring behind them, they did not own. They hired a whole crew together, people with whom they are already on many ships had worked together - the chef, the receptionist, the Maître, the Chef de Partie, the upper waitress, all former crew members.

Cruise community to roost Abenberg

The Schneider and her team have given the restaurant a more modern and luxurious nature, when it Abenberg were used to. No more hearty farmhouse kitchen, the food has been refined, subtly renovated the cellars, the dishes match; morning there are only jam in porcelain bowls, the superior taste is recovered.

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The inhabitants of the small city with its crowded houses only had to get used to it that the great world come to them is that the chef is a much-traveled man, all sorts of exotic brings to the plate. And that even the guests arrive from far away. Indeed, precisely because crusaders guests are sophisticated, they also visit the castle Abenberg.

At the inauguration ceremony, they were all there, the celebrities, to the ships as an entertainer have occurred, the passengers, while the directors are friends, crew members, it was a single rendezvous. People who are otherwise interrelated by Yemeni cities were, asian cookshop tried lifeboats crew or between parties to celebrate, they sat together that evening at a mighty castle in Bavaria. And talking of the sea.

Awakening to the Adriatic.

On the wildly romantic Adriatic peninsula of Punta scale grows a giant holiday complex approached with luxury and family hotels Giant Hamam and self-sufficient supply. The ambitious project is a sign: Croatia emancipated itself from its image as a cheap holiday destination.

 

Zadar - Larger families with children, students, seniors and young lovers in the past decades as a holiday destination Croatia driven - often by car. All together, the little purses, for the "best weeks of the year" was available. As the foreign tourists, including the Offer: Only 14 percent of bed supply was in quality hotels. The vast majority were in neighborhoods with modest private campgrounds or satisfied.

But those days are gone. Also in Croatia - with a spectacular coastline of 1700 kilometers from the natural abundance presented - can be demanding guests now come at their expense.

Over the past three to four years, a hotel in Croatia landscape, including the discerning holiday-makers from Istria in the north to Dubrovnik in the south of the Adriatic Sea is now a dense network of four-star hotels.

Tourism is the main industry

Valamar has 22 hotels and eight apartment facilities, the largest foreign tourism enterprises in Croatia. The Austrian owners have abgewirtschaftete equipment from the seventies and modernized a network of four-star hotels set up. Their flagship is the new "Valamar Lacroma Resort" in Dubrovnik. The "President" hotel overlooking the sea and the Elafite Islands in the north and Poreč in the "Diamond" and "Tamaris" have become among foreign guests made a name.

In 2008, nine million foreigners visited the Croatian coast. A tight-thirds of them came from Germany and Austria. The guests from beyond the borders flushed together with the two million domestic tourists for more than seven billion euros in cash. Meanwhile, the tourism, with a quarter share of the gross domestic product by far the most important industry moulted.

Nevertheless, the beaches, even in high season is not populated by masses. There are only about 120,000 hotel and 440,000 private beds. There are 200,000 parking spaces in good camping facilities. With few exceptions, especially in Istria, Croatia has mostly cliffs. Thus, the natural limits to investors, following the example of other Mediterranean countries to establish concrete deserts.

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That tourism still has a great future, show the latest investment by foreign companies. Recently, for example, runs the "Softopening" said step-by-step opening of the Kempinski Adriatic "in Savudrija at the extreme northwest tip of Istria, practically across from Venice. The "five-star golf and Spahotel aims with the first 18-hole golf course in Croatia points. One trick is to its own wedding chapel. Already three years ago has a Hilton hotel in Dubrovnik, its doors open.

Artificial Ferienregion for 210 million euros

By far the most ambitious project seeks just the Tyrolean Falkensteiner Michaelerplatz-group to the wildly romantic peninsula of Punta Skala in the Adriatic city of Zadar. With investments of 210 million euros to be 30 hectares with 1.6 km of natural beach holiday a whole region. "Mixed approach" is the magic formula, says manager Gerhard Mans Bart: There is a family hotel just opened, a spring-ready in the coming five-star luxury hotel and 187 apartments. The 40 to 100 square meter apartments can be rented or purchased.

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The complex includes a saltwater pool, in which "the Dead Sea postpositive" is a giant hamam with ten-meter high ceilings, 6000 square meter spa area, change gears and water everywhere, bright rooms and ocean views from almost every room. Because the car-free holiday landscape is disappearing, the mobile sub-sets in the garage. The desalination plant, sewage treatment and electricity production to guarantee the operation, even if it is one of the feared loss of local businesses should be. "We are at least three days Vollbelegung self-sufficient," says manager's beard.

In Croatia, it has around the millennium change dozens windy privatization of the old hotels from communist times, where. The buyers did not concern the improvement of tourist offer, but a quick profit. The disinterest of the rut and when the workers from the era of socialism worked more as a brake than as an engine for the industry. Only the unique combination of Croatian landscapes and proven expertise hotel opens new prospects now tourism.

Elchsalami with beer cans.

Grell Green lit the birches, red lichen and the azure sky with colors and light stingy Lapland in the summer - and not even with mosquitoes. Bite-tolerant hikers start in Abisko in the wilderness of "Kungsleden," Sweden's most famous trail.

 

Abisko - the sky is the sun still high above the horizon. At the rest stop a campfire crackles, the wanderer stochert - umwabert of smoke - after a potato. So it is, the wilderness romanticism in Abisko National Park, 200 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle. 1909, ie 100 years ago, the park was established. This anniversary celebrates Sweden, which then became the first country in Europe has created national parks, now with a "Year of nature."

The smoke at the picnic area is good, because he keeps the - too many. Culex vulgaris, the common gnat, buzzing in massive swarms through the North Country, Summer, and next to her are also brakes, flying, Kriebelmücken and other nasty Schwirrgeister underway. But who goes hiking in Lapland, who knows that and ensures that: With clothes, by no proboscis sticks with defense sprays and Wildnishut together with a network before the face.

More exciting than all the rest of the insect fauna in Abisko: moose and reindeer can espy with high probability, as well as many rare birds. With a little luck are polar or Auerhahn fox, lynx or wolverine. Also bears and wolves roam through the park

In persistent rain through deserted wilderness

For the visitors from Central Europe is a Lapland trip, but even without such a rendezvous with a predator adventure enough: He wades through icy rivers, tracks 15 kilograms of luggage on the back, drinking from sources that sleeps by the fire and stapft by continuous rain in the deserted wilderness. Through lonely expanses of Lapland winds probably Sweden's most famous trail, the "Kungsleden. In Abisko begins the roughly 440-kilometer-long "King", which crosses several national parks.

Apart from some Sami reindeer breeders, live in the Fjällregion almost no people. But the trail opens up the mountains for nature: He is well marked paths lead through Bohlen otherwise barely passable Moore, and bridges span raging rivers. Moreover, because the managed huts, always beautiful one days march apart. There are dry beds, hot soups, cold beer and food for the road.

Even for shorter Fjälltouren Abisko is a good starting point. There is a supermarket, a petrol station and a few hostels. In parallel with the Europe street rattern day and night long freight trains over, the iron ore from the mines in Kiruna to Narvik port to bring in Norway. In Abisko start small hiking trails and guided tours, a chairlift goes up to the mountain Nuolja.

There, above the tree line 900 meters in height, shows the Lapland mountains in all its vastness: Below extends the mighty sea to the east from Torneträsk. Between the snow-capped peaks are bogs, marshes, rivers, pine forests and birch groves.

Log instead Felljurte

Who before the march in the mountains more about the landscape experience will find next to the tourist station in Abisko the Naturum. There are maps and touring tips, lectures and guided tours. A few steps behind the station of Abisko is also a replica Sami settlement. The Village Museum shows how the indigenous people 150 years ago and lived.

Today there are still many of them in the reindeer herding active. But instead of using skis and sled drive the animals now with helicopters and snowmobiles together. And they have their Rentierfelljurten against long block houses with electric heating and flat screen TV exchanged.

Anyone who truly wild wilderness searches, may from Abisko Vadvetjåkka arrive. Sweden's northernmost national park is only 25 square kilometers in size and is located in the high mountains on the border with Norway. There are no paths, bridges and huts, and few visitors to get lost here. You have to deal with the boat on the Torneträsk bring to and from the northern shore of six miles through unmarked, swampy terrain penetrate to reach the park.

On the campfire has become even baked potatoes. There are Elchsalami and beer cans in the river chilled. The mosquito net on the hat is folded down, the sun is shining still, the sleeping bag is rolled out. Were now a troll from the forest geschlendert, it's not a big surprise. He should like salami cost, sipping on beer and tell his life. But such thoughts probably only come here in summer Lapland.

Always after the hare.

Gradients are rare: A bike ride in the country is flat Osnabrücker comfortable nature. On Wegesrand shine quietschgelbe rape, lures homemade plum cake - and who has the bike over, simply switch to rail.

 

Quakenbrück - The rabbit is not a friend of excitement. Leisurely winds the little river through the countryside north of Osnabrück. The same applies to the entire Hasetal: The relatively flat landscape in the dandelions in the meadows and rape in a sunny yellow glow, is made as to the discovery of slowness. Cycling here is exactly the thing to them as much as possible NOTICE, rape or even smelling rabbit grazing on the lollop to see.

The rises in the rabbit Teutoburg forest and flows into the Ems in Meppen. Between the river seeks its way through pastures and rape, passing many large farms and some small cities like Bramsche, Löningen and Heart Lake. Cyclists can Hasetal not much wrong. Her motto is: "Always after the hare" - in the "hare-Ems Tour" for example, according to the signs and made up of Osnabrück Heart Lake, but also to Meppen Rheine or can be driven.

For the first time the river is still on the Osnabrück city to see. Since he appears suddenly behind a bend, as it leaves a green roof in the west, the direction. Gradients are rare - between Osnabrück and the destination Bramsche is practically only on the bridge over the branch channel several meters uphill. Bramsche worthwhile because of the already Tuchmachermuseums stop.

The town was once famous for its materials: "The Tuchmachergilde had been since the 16th century," says museum director Kerstin Schumann. To work in 1824 Bramsche 150 Tuchmachermeister. Material for the uniforms of the Prussian army was well established as blankets for the Hamburg fire brigade. "Today there are only very few companies. But we did not want the legacy of the drapers lost."

"Spun and woven"

And so is the old mill building, which is the middle of the 19th draper Century for their own purposes have taken over, now a museum, which tells her story. On a completely different story reminiscent of the battlefield Kalkriese where Arminius, with its Germanic troops exactly 2000 years Varus and his three Roman legions have defeated. It is just around the corner. For the anniversary, there are Tuchmachermuseum Bramsche the special exhibition "spun and woven: Textiles in Romans and Germans."

The permanent exhibition presents, on the other hand, such as substance was formerly manufactured - with the help of the wolf hybrid to loosen the wool, for example with the spinning and carding, as the Vorgarn is responsible, from the big spinning machine with 280 spindles make the yarn. Ursula Bart runs through the rooms and all the machines can run once, so that the visitor a better impression of them get, how they work.

Then we continue towards Bersenbrück - but not for long: early in Rieste is an opportunity for a break in a pretty little farm café. It is in a timber-housed, which is already 1627 and was built originally in the wages of people lived, like the agricultural assistants were called.

Today here Gerda Rohde. The 71-year-old, the café in her home 15 years ago set up. Old furniture is there, on the table Spitzendeckchen. Serve nuts, plum and apple pie or strawberry cake - baked everything themselves, the ideal of strengthening them go in the direction Bersenbrück.

Handcar bike instead

At the landscape through which the rabbit runs, including the Artland, often known for its centuries-old farmhouses with impressive half-timbered facade is well known, particularly where high chestnut trees and the spacious gardens are surrounded. The soils here are good, the farmers were once rich and showed the same as in bathroom or Gehrden mountains. Some courts have focused on set and offer tourist apartments.

Who is not the whole time sitting on the bike you can ride in between handcar. In Hasetal there are several routes, for example between Quakenbrück and Nortrup. Riders then climb around, but throw on. Because the trolley, here on the old train tracks in use, with muscle power by moving the pedals. Four cyclists have to do their best, the others sit in the open compartment, and can calmly enjoy the scenery.

"The course record is 25 minutes for ten kilometers," says handcar Zugchef-Jürgen Behrens. But you must not have the ambition to excel. The route leads through fields and woods, the sun shines through the canopy. The rabbit is not visible, but are glider pilots in the air and farmers with the tractor mowing the grass. The throw is not so bad.

After changing from the trolley back on the saddle, it is not far to Quakenbrück. The hare is here divided into several arms, which flow through the city and only later re-unite. Quakenbrück, with its "Artland Dragons" a real size in the basketball league, is more manageable, but it has a huge marketplace and in the middle of it a fountain with a huge bull's head.

Island hopping to gods.

Rugged cliffs, snow-white beaches and a huge colony of seagulls: the Galician Atlantic Islands in the northwest of Spain are among the most spectacular national parks in Europe. Since a newspaper here the most beautiful beach in the world "voted, the burden on the environment size.

 

Vigo - Carefully manages Ramón Guimerans the sailboat by the mussel in the Ría de Vigo. The breeding stations are as far from small battle ships in the fjord-like estuary lie. Fischer attract tons, up to 15 meter-long ropes, in which the shellfish hang with cranes on their boats. After this the way to the Cies Islands free.

Shortly after the Cape Home, the harsh north wind in the sails and the boat shoots in bank through the dark blue of the Atlantic.

Already after a few minutes of the beach Rodas and the underlying headland to see what the two islands Monteagudo and Illa do Faro connect. Ramón fetches the main sail to the speed slows down and goes into the bay at anchor. The turquoise blue waters and white sandy beaches are a stark contrast to the pine and eucalyptus forests behind.

At this sight, you can understand why the British newspaper "The Guardian" the Praia das Rodas, two years ago to the "most beautiful beach in the world" chose. "Since we can hardly questions before visitors even save," says the warden, José Manuel López.

Of course he wants that as many people come to enjoy the natural paradise know. Too many but it should also not be, so that the ecosystem is not too much will be charged: "That is why we have restricted the number of visitors. Maximum allowed 2200 people per day visit the island," explains José Manuel.

Colorful and bustle below the water surface

Cies The group consists of the three islands Monteagudo, Illa do Faro and San Martino. Together with the island groups
Ons, and Cortegada Salvora and some 20 smaller islets, it forms the 2002-founded National Galician Atlantic islands. Which is almost 80 percent under water.

HOLIDAY ISLAND-RANKING

Find your dream island: Click on the graphic,
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"Each island group is located in front of a fjord-like flow of arms of the Galician coast, and the exchange between the salty ocean and the freshwater of the Rías Baxias ensures high water quality and nutrient concentration," says the warden. The result is an underwater life with 200 species of algae and an abundance of shellfish, octopus and fish. Even dolphins, turtles and whales cavort in the waters.

The seclusion of the Atlantic Islands to attract water and birds of prey. Especially good are the large colonies of cormorants, guillemots and Basstölpeln from a boat on the island looking to the Atlantic side, with its rugged cliffs to watch.

With around 22,000 pairs nest on the Atlantic islands and one of the largest gull colonies in the world. Who is not with the boat is underway, can also Cies observation from space at the Alto de Campa, the gulls from the nearby spectacular. Here in the vicinity were the remains of settlements dating back to 3500 BC found. The Romans settled in the second century after Christ on Cies and called it the "Island of the Gods". Since 18 Cies century is uninhabited.

Dangerous hunting of valuable shellfish

Passing the lighthouse do Peito to go from the Cies Islands in the direction of north to the Ría de Pontevedra and the upstream Atlantic Ons and Onza Islands. At its open sea cliffs over looking to sail, it could hardly be more exciting. Often the locals here
Collecting dangerous duck and mussels can be observed.

TMN
Small islands in the large estuaries: Several islands form the National Galician Atlantic Islands

The stone crosses on the cliffs recall that many fishermen in the surf their lives. On the island, hiking trails lead to vantage points such as the Mirador de Fedorentos with his outlook on Onza and Cies or Burato do Inferno, the "hell hole", which is steep in depth.

Ons is the largest and only inhabited islands of the Atlantic. Only 20 people live here everyday like 50 years ago. "But we are satisfied. We have made our peace and everything we need: fish, octopus, goat, chicken and vegetables," says Victoria and driving their goats in the barn. In a so-called stone Horreo keep onions, tomatoes and corn for the typical Galician empanadas on.

Of course, in the filled pasta and fresh octopus. Ons is in Spain as the "Mecca of pulpos," the octopus, known. Lola Vidal prepares it in the restaurant "Casa Checho" with coarse salt, olive oil and paprika too.

Along the beaches north of Ons is Salvora see the island, which Spain's largest colony of Gelbfußmöwen is practically used. Passing hundreds of mussel is by sailboat in the estuary of Arousa. Here are just a few hundred meters away from the mainland also belong to the national park islands and Malveiras Cortegada with her laurel forest.

As Don Raffaele is fighting against the Mafia.

The work in the vineyards of Torchiarolo is an act of resistance. The Mafia does not want to accept that the state has confiscated the terrain and the priest Raffaele Bruno wine grows there - whose recipe for success against the gangsters: a profitable crop.

 

Torchiarolo in the Province of Brindisi: A grass green lizard reckt their chest in the sun, with full power warms the vineyards. How brave soldiers because the vines are healthy, strong and in perfect distance from each other. In the background, topped by a Trullo, otherwise there is silence.

The peace of the land is new, and nobody knows how long it will last. Because this was once the dominion of the Mafia. "The first year we have six acres alight," says Don Raffaele Bruno, priest of the Catholic Church and secretary of the Anti-Mafia Organization Libera.

For weeks the workers were cut every morning irrigation hoses confiscated on the grounds. Now and then they got threatening letters: "Terre di Puglia, non romper i coglioni stand it -" This is Apulia, we do not go to the eggs. " Also photos of the Chairman of the Co-operative courses, with a cross on it and "Muto" among them - a clear invitation to finally shut up. "In response to this," Bruno says smilingly, "we have a new olive grove planted."

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Don Raffaele does not look like a priest. He wears sandals and denim jacket, drinking double espressos and smokes cigarettes. In conversation, he is highly concentrated and very open. Dangles not the big brown wooden cross on his chest, it could for a friendly social workers hold. And that is exactly what he is actually too.

Total 30 hectare cultivated by the cooperative Torchiarolo employs ten permanent employees and up to 40 seasonal workers. Among the employees are former prisoners, drug addicts and Mafiosi. "The work must be paid adequately to show that life in legality is possible", explains Bruno and remembers a former Mafioso who, after three days on the field Schufterei flabbergasted wage anstarrte on his hand and said: "gosh, it can be also earn money!"

Since well before 13 years of the regulation number 109/96 came into force, shall co-operatives and associations, municipalities, provinces and regions of the confiscated Mafia property to use. As early as 4000 real estate, with dirty money or dirty methods acquired villas, apartments and basic pieces, then came back into the legitimate economy.

Across southern Italy emerged goods on which wine, olives, cereals and vegetables are grown - organically sound and politically correct the bargain. The relatively small number of units produced food will be the sponsor in whose Coop supermarkets, but also sold in separate shops - in Rome, Naples, Bologna, and soon also in many other cities.

"Bombs, murder and death"

Apulia long time it was an island of the blessed, spared from the bloody battles that Cosa Nostra, Camorra or 'Ndrangheta provided. Don Raffaele, many years head of the youth in the diocese of Lecce, does not believe his eyes when he was in 1987 as a priest was dismissed after Monteroni: "There I met a world that until then I was completely unknown. It consisted of bombs, murder and dead. "

Increasingly, the faithful complained about extortion attempts, more and more local entrepreneurs had to pay protection money. It was the first major processes, in 1989, said the chairman of the Appeal Court in Lecce first publicly of a "mafia structures in the region. From the so-called "Sacra Corona Unita" was still no talk - organized crime, however, was finally arrived in Puglia.

As on 23 May 1992 investigation of the Sicilian magistrates Giovanni Falcone and his wife with bodyguards during a bombing killed, Don Raffaele will no longer be silent. He informed the community on the Piazza on the cowardly murder, and warns: "Let us not forget that these same things also happen here Monteroni."

Whether he is not afraid of the consequences it had? "No, I had a very good relationship with my community, I was firmly embedded and difficult to isolate," says Bruno. Of course it came to tension, they told him the usual threats to you. On the other hand, he had but also the children of Mafiosi in the care of youth and their wives confessed declined. And the church endorsed his public criticism? "I was advised to be cautious," said the pastor laconically.

"Mafiosi, Repent!"

By the year 1993 there was organized crime in Italy, no issue that the Catholic Church publicly discussed. Then drove the then Pope John Paul II in Sicily Agrigento and caused a veritable scandal. Before 100,000 faithful, he appealed on 9 May unequivocally to all members of the so-called honorable societies: "Mafiosi, Repent! One day, the court of God and your need you for your ignominies responsibility." The people had a right to live in peace, "without murdered without fear, without threats, without sacrifice." "The evil will not win," promised the pontiff.

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The response of the Cosa Nostra came immediately: Only four months later, the 55-year-old priest Giuseppe Puglisi before his door in Palermo with a shot in the temple literally executed. He had in his community care to drug addicts, dealers displayed - was basically a small fish whose death, however, the signal was great: you dare not to far ahead, even before we do not stop priests, were the sponsors, the church know. Half a year later, on 19 March 1994, will be another priest, Don Peppe Diana, in the sacristy of his church in Casal di Principe murdered - in his name.

"No one can be alone to fight against the Mafia," says Don Raffaele. "Mafiosi are not criminals, like all others. They commit crimes while, but they are working with the system and are in great style with society and politics intertwined." That is why even need the anti-Mafia movement, a functioning, nationwide network. The staff of the organization, founded in 1995, Libera believe that repression alone is not working. "We want the Mafioso's face," said Bruno, who for many years as chaplain in the prison in Lecce, and thus works on both sides of the front is at home.

"Here you spend your time with us, and outside you explain to people that we are evil," made him a few dozen prisoners to the accusation, when he heard of a travel information, a so-called anti-Mafia caravan in prison returned. Bruno reported from his educational work in schools and in communities and made it clear: "We are not against you. We want to help you, again with the people cooperate, rather than simply to clear the road."

The skepticism remains, as well as the confusing ambivalence on both sides: From time to organize meetings between Malavitosi Libera and relatives of Mafia victims in prison. "These are beautiful, but also very difficult moments," says Bruno. Some stakeholders are driven by the desire to understand, but only reluctantly, because of the pain and grief threaten to leave. While some detainees stonewall, stop others from these meetings in tears because their victims have the size, after all, what has happened to them to go.

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As Libera in October 2007, several liters of the oil fields confiscated to Assisi posted, so that the lamp on the holy grave of San Francesco to ignite, there was a memorable moment: A former Mafioso and a member of mafia victims wore the oil for burial - "the wolf and the lamb together," recalls Bruno. "We have not solved the problem, but these are signs of hope."

"Libera was born to schools, mayors, business leaders and the churches together and intelligence to operate, so that as few people as possible at all in the sphere of being mafia." Nothing less than the kind of thinking should be changed, so the call.

On the question of whether the mafia ultimately the only functioning system in the state was unwirsch Bruno responded: "I think this is exaggerated," he says. "For many citizens of the state but an empty word." The mafia offers a wide range of services, locke with houses, money and jobs. "But it's nothing and costs nothing more than anything else - the personal dignity." Some people temporarily feel big and powerful. "But in the end he is only a puppet."

Everything is in flux.

Bastei, Königstein and Lilienstein - blow for blow attract canoeists at the highlights of the Saxon Switzerland is over. The spectacular scenery of the Elbsandsteingebirge also recently attracted Hollywood stars - albeit glamorous, but also brought their extravaganzas.

 

Schmilka / Rathen - "Basically you have the Elbe for you to rent", Matthias schindet impression. The 52-year-old is currently with the minibus at the ferry terminal in the border village of Schmilka vorgefahren, the canoe from the trailer is balanced and final instructions: "Red buoy, right past green buoy, left over. So it comes to professional shipping not get in the way .

The would-be paddlers swept along in life jackets. In three hours Matthias wants us to pick up again Rathen, 19 kilometer downstream. As an employee of a canoe-hire, he has a lot to do with boats, the water comes but rarely. We have now provided him.

Anyone who travels into Elbsandsteingebirge, usually less than for water sports because of the picturesque mountains table and thousands of rock. Walking is the job number one in the Saxon Switzerland and then replace a few of their walking sticks Paddle On. 1200 kilometers of hiking trails lead through the bizarre rocky landscape, 34 river kilometers are there between the Czech border and Pirna on the western edge of the National Park region at least.

Everything is in flux

On the water there is an initial finding, then it is banal: We are part of the stream. For novice paddlers pond is already something. Because essential, albeit leisurely glide in the meantime we are gray-green waters of the Elbe. Four km / h is the flow velocity, it was said. Led to more water flow, he would be faster. We make a statement on: 19 kilometers, we need to create three hours we have. Until after Rathen drift, we can not.

That, however, we would like, because the forest-fringed cliffs world pulls us into its spell. 95 million years ago the area was part of the giant Cretaceous sea. What is left today are the fossilized remains of giant underwater sand dunes which people barely perceptible eroded.

Paddle paddle stroke for stroke we come to the Table Mountain Lilienstein closer, one of the many landmarks of the Saxon Switzerland. Rechtselbisch Schramm pushes the rock massif in the view. Good to see are the old quarries Postelwitzer from the 16th Century. Here, the sandstone, inter alia, for the Frauenkirche and the Zwinger in Dresden dismantled. Long are the rocky nature. First protected along the Elbe in 1912 expelled.

Rapids and islands of the Elbe in Saxon Switzerland is not, but the rush. We are the motor ferry "stone circle" on their way from Bath after Schandau Hrensko behind the border and a barge opposite. With weak sense, we observe from our nutshell the giant ship, but the bow wave is less than feared. When Bad Schandau of the old seaside resort on Elbkilometerhöhe ten, in the twenties in his flower stand, pushing the only five-star hotel in the area into the picture.

Quentin Tarantino recently checked in here two years ago opened "Elbresidenz", when he for his new movie "Inglourious Basterds" at Lilienstein and turned by the management as "getting used to host" has been because he was barefoot in the seat in front of the cutter bar have set. Kate Winslet, the shooting of the film "The readers' guests, was regarded as" pleasant, "perceived. A little bit goes on the bill that, with the glitz and glamor Edelherberge Bad Schandau could be retrieved. But ultimately it is the beauty of the landscape that attracts.

View from the frog perspective

We dip the paddle back into the murky water in which no fish is visible. A couple of ducks in our low-level crossing route, then a steam paddle boat in Saxon our next oncoming traffic. It has its own data after the oldest and largest fleet of Radddampfern. The copy that is relevant to us vorbeischaufelt is therefore 80 to 130 years old. The passengers of the uneven flow of vehicles beäugen is curious. With the meat on the seat height of the water surface is about the lowest position which Elbsandsteingebirge you may have. The frog's perspective sharpens the senses for the height.

In Elbkilometer 15.5 piles up the fortress Königstein on. The medieval castle was built in the 13th Century first mentioned, was meanwhile POW camp and is now a museum and event venue. Together with the Elbe we encircle the majestic Lilienstein, the only rechtselbischen Table Mountain, which Sportkletterern appeared again and the peregrine falcon is equally popular.

Completely unnoticed, we have really so impressive Elbschleife durchpaddelt. Passing meadows, where small lambs hopping through the grass and old bucks blöken. Traffic has priority, is on the label, when we start in the hand got. The Seilfähre in Rathen we grant them. When she creates dismisses a crowd of cyclists on the Elberadweg the flow line. The real eye-catcher but is the rock bastion, which is 200 meters above our heads there. We let the kayak gently glide over the sandy shore. Matthias waiting. The 19 kilometers went by like - like - in the River.

"One and a half hours it runs from here up to the bastion," says Matthias, when he left the kayak back into the van levers. Arrived on the massif, is the current in all its dimensions, so he winds and even shows what a Elbschleife is. Then on the bastion, although we are on it, in a way become invisible.

In the character of the music.

For the first time, two cruise ships at once baptized: On Friday night in Genoa smash champagne bottles on the "Pacifica" and "luminosa". The guests of the white giants can first use the recording studio on board, movies on deck and enjoy karaoke in measure.

 

Genoa - Twin Baptism for Costa Cruises in Genoa at the weekend Namensgebungszeremonie for the new ship "Costa luminosa" and "Costa Pacifica" is celebrated. Late on Friday evening, the godparents time two champagne bottles on each ship can crash.

The Costa Pacifica will be the Israeli singer Noa dubbed the "Costa luminosa" by the Italian Olympic fencing champion Valentina Vezzali. According to the shipping company, the event is the first double christening of two cruise ships worldwide. At the feast at the Ponte Andrea Doria to 4000 invited guests from all over the world.

With the combined 900 million euros expensive new entrants, the number of ships of the company on 14 Costa has until 2012 a total of five new buildings in order - this is currently the largest fleets of investment worldwide, said the shipping company. Costa attaches importance to "Made in Italy", all ships will be shipping at the Italian Fincantieri built. After their service, they are also flying the flag of Italy travel.

Twins do not necessarily resemble an egg as the others, and this is also in Costa so: The "luminosa" is 92,600 tons in size and has seating for 2826 guests. It is the first of a new generation of cruise ships and so is the new flagship of Costa. The "luminosa" was "the most exclusive and innovative" fleet member, said the shipping company, tailored to a demanding clientele. The Costa Pacifica "is 114,500 tons and capacity for 3780 guests, and a much bigger sister of the current flagships Costa Serena and Costa Concordia.

The first recording studio on board

And what makes the new vessels in particular? On the "Pacifica" will be sent musikalisch: The ship has its own soundtrack at 29 partly newly composed songs. The music also has the design and equipment characterized. But passengers can also actively songs and record: the world's first recording studio on board. The "luminosa" on the other hand, has light and design as a theme, and falls by its avant-garde in appearance. There have been processed precious woods, marble, pearl, and Murano glass.

Both vessels have a large sports and Spa offer: The "Pacifica" has four outdoor pools, which in bad weather with a glass roof can be closed, the "luminosa" own paths for joggers and roller driver and a golf simulator with putting green. The spa area with massage rooms, beauty cabins, steam baths and saunas are extended on both ships. The "luminosa" offers 3500 square feet of relaxation in Far Eastern atmosphere, "Pacifica" on 6000 square meters. On both ships there from some cabins and suites from direct access to the spa area.

Children and teenagers can enjoy the meal on the cabin can bring, if they are not after a dinner with mummy and daddy is. There is also a big screen under the open sky, on the music videos and feature films will be shown. The stage is also a platform for his karaoke contests.

"Pacifica" south, "luminosa" north

The new Costa ships will follow in the coming months, in very different water ride: The "Pacifica" by taking from Savona to November week cruises through the western Mediterranean Sea with the objectives of Barcelona, Mallorca, Tunis, Malta, Palermo and the Roman port of Civitavecchia. The "luminosa" goes to Northern Europe: For the flagship are 11 - to 14-day trips to the capitals of the Baltic and North Cape on the program.

Costa Cruises is the leading cruise company in Europe. For 60 years, it offers boat trips around the world. Be controlled 250 destinations worldwide, from the North Country to the Far East.

Cedar-chic charm instead of thatch.

Sylt is modern: In the extreme south of the North Sea island reckt the hotel just opened Budersand gen sea. With its silvery wood facade fits the house of the dunes - and forms a pleasant contrast to the traditional thatched-roof architecture.

 

The "Budersand" reckt the North Sea as opposite Sylter Buhne how the rows of concrete piles, where the waves break. From the thatched-roof cottage on the island sea stings the newly opened five-star hotel on the southern tip Sylter shows: The facade with bright strips of cedar wood and large glass surfaces has nothing more to the elegant charm of half-timbered houses, including wild roses from the hedge.

His name was Budersand the hotel after the second highest dune on the island, behind the house, to the North Sea side, and the 18-hole golf course back there. But who is the building in Hörnum approaches mentioned in Norway: Before the guests on the cobbled square in front of the hotel, they pass through a newly created and very colorful wooden house settlement, which at first glance to the mountains in the far north recalls.

On the grounds of the facility, in the neighborhood of the incumbent Sylter Yacht Club, also created homes for some 130 hotel employees. "Not just the guests should feel comfortable with us," is the philosophy of Budersand-boss Claudia Ebert. Also, the employees should be informed of the existence of a new hotel benefit.

For years was the former barracks broke. There were the Allies in World War II, the first bombs on Germany to be thrown, and a long time there was nobody interested in the design of the contaminated area interested. Until the Darmstädterin Claudia Ebert came.

Mysterious corridors for Dune

"The Pidder-Lüngen barracks, we have four years ago totally demolished," says Ebert. "From the rubble we modeled, as far as possible, a completely new dunes." The heiress of the dynasty Wella invested 50 million euros in the new building. The desire to such a modern hotel on Sylt to build there in the graduate business has long since her childhood she knows the island and has in itself an old Keitum Fries house.

During their work, it reminds the owner, witnessed the demolition squad as some surprise: "In the depth they were in underground tunnels, all in the direction of dune Budersand-led." Whatever might be in this huge sand dune hide mag - it remains untouched. And so courses before the completion of the hotel Budersand rumors, which later, at the bar, wild yarn can be spun.

Said bar is, moreover, surprisingly, at the end of the lobby and offers the best view of all newcomers. Over the counter hover round lights blown Murano glass in Venice, the Ebert chose. On their journey through Italy, where even the bright-Bianco Perlino marble for the bathrooms comes, accompanied by the interior designer Jan Wichers. The 65-year-old Hamburg already visited the German Gucci stores and one of his designs is in the Museum of Modern Art in New York for show.

The entire hotel, however, unmistakable handwriting Claudia Eberts. Not just the bar lights with their hanging, glass coral poor testament to the desire and the interest of the hostess, with architecture, interior design, and address - and with the conditions of production of the furniture. In order to be able to assess, such as braided leather armchairs manufactured, flew Claudia Ebert with their interior designer to the Philippines. "Because," says the hotel owner, "I would have in the factories only one child - I would have been gone. So much is clear."

Outlook for Amrum

79 luxury rooms and a restaurant can be found in "Budersand Hotel - Golf & Spa - Sylt" square, the four bridges with associated courtyards and light houses. The flat roof above intertwined flowing terraces, with grasses, oats and sand dunes are covered stones. Some suites you can enjoy the popular Watts-view - the guests out of the bathtub or on Amrum Föhr look.

Other open spaces turn into the rolling dunes and the 18-hole golf course. The transition - which is perhaps the only disturbing at this prospect - would have been possible without the high wire fence barely notice. The Green is a links course modeled after the Scottish first true coastal golf course in Germany and was - like the restaurant in the Gulf Strönholt House - already opened last summer.

In the basement is a spa with the turmalinblauen Twelve-meter pool, various saunas and a wooden terrace vertäfelte, on the wind with little Pilates classes are held. Also invited to relax by Elke Heidenreich selected library, the two days and two nights, shortly before the hotel opened, assembled by hand. In addition to Homer's Iliad are works of Umberto Eco and Günter Grass for children and a selection of Lillifee to Harry Potter. Perhaps, however schmökert one or the other offspring in rarities such as children's books about Pidder Lüngen about those legendary pirates, once in the dunes Hörnum drove his mischief.

In the hotel corridors are plain black and white photographs on the eye. They tell of the happy childhood, the Claudia Ebert summer after summer with her family on the North Sea island spent. "Sylt I feel closely connected," says the hotel manager. She tells that she and her project is not only contrary to love met. Some islanders can manifest with the advent of the modern designs in the first few dunes begin.

"These reactions, I am long accustomed to," says the dark-haired, petite Hessin and remains abandoned. With its post-modern house in Darmstadt also won it many years ago not only the confirmation of their neighbors.

Small but wehrfähig.

A schnaps welcome: in the monasteries of Serbia and Kosovo, the monks receive their visitors hospitable. No wonder, since the medieval fortified churches are hidden in deep valleys and high mountains - who she finds proves fun adventure.

 

Belgrade - Miserable roads, only a few attractions and quality accommodation safer - Serbia and the only just over a year since the independent state of Kosovo, mostly by tourists so far been left aside. In Central Europe are largely unknown, therefore, nor the medieval Serbian monasteries of which there are even some on the list of UNESCO World Heritage site have done.

Even on a small tour in the mountain monasteries Fruska Gora, north of the Serbian capital Belgrade, 17 historic churches can be admired. For this trip you have one day and drive 200 kilometers into account. Who the actual sacred Highlights of the two countries will explore, should be three to four days expected.

Belgrade is the starting and ending point of about 1100-kilometer round trip, with just the car individually possible. In some monasteries to stay. Even in Serbian, there are few books on worship, literature in English or German is scarce. Information about the story you have to be online or in old Yugoslavia, travel guides zusammenklauben.

Unique frescoes in Manasija

From Belgrade is in a southerly direction on the motorway to the city Svilajnac. In the small town of the weir Despotovac waiting Manasija monastery from the early 15th Century, with its mighty fortification walls and massive towers. The church itself, whose affairs like all churches on this tour with remarkable frescoes, is the visitors because of its small size stump. All art-historically prominent religious buildings in this corner of Europe weather because of the centuries of wars and kept small to defend against enemies aligned. Monumental buildings like the cathedrals in Western Europe does not exist.

The Serbian monasteries are usually far away in deep valleys. The monks there, despite the 500-year Ottoman rule and later the Austro-Hapsburg occupation, the part until the First World War lasted, the Serbentum up. The old Orthodox Christian traditions, were able to survive.

The wars at this interface of Western and Eastern Europe, many monasteries as Manasija and the little Ravanica lying south east of the city Cuprija repeatedly devastated. Often, the art-historically unique paintings on the walls of more than 100 years of wind and weather, because the enemy because of the valuable lead the roof was removed. Often, it therefore appears as a miracle that the gloss of the frescoes still to be seen.

At the second largest Serbian city of Nis passes in the Kosovo capital Pristina, where as a contrast to one or other old mosque can be visited. The most important is the just renovated from the ground up "Great Mosque", the full name, Fatih Sultan Mehmet II Mosque is. Mehmet II ( "The Conqueror") had with the intake of Constantinople in 1453 destroyed the Byzantine Empire. Eight years later he left after the conquest of the Western Balkans, the mosque set up in Pristina.

UNESCO monasteries under NATO protection

Before the gates of the city lies the monastery of Gracanica, with its church dating from the 14th Century. It is the headquarters of the Kosovo Bishop Artemije. From Pristina, where there are some good possibilities there, it goes in the far west of the city of Peja. A mighty mountain chain shield Kosovo from Montenegro on the Adriatic coast from. Here are the two World Visoki Decani monastery in the south and the ancient Patriarchate directly in the city. The extensive facilities are provided by Italian soldiers of the Nato-led International Security Assistance Force KFOR guarded. They are attacks of the Albanians on the few remaining Serbs prevented.

From Peja, where there are small hotels, the trip through the mountains to the north in the direction Rožaje to Montenegro to turn in Tutin on Serbian territory to return. West of the Muslim populated Novi Pazar is the Sopocani monastery from the 13th Century, due to its extraordinary frescoes is famous. Further north in the town Usce waiting Studenica the monastery, a foundation of the first Serbian kings from the 12th Century. Before returning to Belgrade is still south of the town of Kraljevo Zica the monastery from the 13th Century can be visited.

A shot of adventure and flexibility is on a visit to these attractions is required. But there are no security problems, and the supply of gasoline is saved. In addition to the art-historical gems travelers can the hospitality of the monks enjoy the almost everywhere a strong fruit brandy, strong coffee and sweets to offer.

If you're lucky, you can during a liturgical celebration in the West Europeans mystical world of Christian orthodoxy dip.

Sauna, sun, solitude.

A dream for nature lovers: The holiday gite in a Finnish river promises interesting encounters with moose and lots of sauna wellness. The locals, this is not enough - they are also cheerful and humid nights of Tango and karaoke in the summer in the country.

 

Viitasaari - rain, wind, eleven degrees. And in the summer? Na primavera. The last outpost with supermarket is Viitasaari, a village in central Finland. Here, once again made a large purchase, then it will go 38 kilometers in the direction of loneliness.

Europe on the first street, then turn off onto a narrow road, right and left only coniferous forest, and to a lake and a house. Re-turn, this time on a dirt road, little houses, no oncoming traffic. Then on a dirt road, potholes in the pace umkurven, the goal finally comes into view: a Bullerbyn houses made of wood, red with white windows on a green hillside with birches. In the background, the shimmering blue lake.

One way or another similar starts for many of the German summer holiday in Finland, which is not always accompanied by rain and cool temperatures is characterized.

Also 38 kilometers away from Viitasaari appear soon on a little blue sky between the clouds by the rain has stopped, the wind too. Well then, let's go: Unpacking, inventories acknowledge the hammock between two birches mounting - and then just enjoy the view over the lake, the scent of freshly mown grass and the silence. If man could stop the time, now would be such a moment!

In Finland, in a cottage on the lake, the time does not stand, but it goes slower - at least it feels like that. This is probably due to the fact that for two weeks of life remains hidden. No event, no hassle, no emails or traffic noise, no neighbors and no messages. This is luxury for the soul.

Outhouse in Styropor Design

Luxury in the classic sense, the log cabin not. There is electricity, telephone, television and the Internet are not. Even the cell phone only works on a hill. The electric stove in the kitchen has two plates, refrigerator and coffee maker are the only other electric appliances. Drinking water shall be provided with buckets from wells gekurbelt and 50 meters will be towed to the house. The toilet is a separate wooden shed rustic coziness of a thunder beam with Styrofoam toilet seat, along with Finnish women's magazines. For all cases there is a ready to spray with lemon fragrance.

TMN
Forests and lakes dominate the country: Finland is slightly smaller than Germany and much less populated

The holiday everyday splashes so as the waves at the shore. Excursions hardly worthwhile because the villages and towns in the surrounding area are rich in culture and sights. Also, public life in the midsummer weeks only in emergency. Because a large part of the 5.3 million Finns also examined the distance to everyday life and flees into mökki, the cottage at the lake. Almost everyone still love technology metropolitan Finn is secretly a nature boy.

The tourists make it like the locals: it rowing on the lake, fishing pike, perch or bass, stoking campfires and grills to catch, or he explored the woods behind his hut. It's earthy, mossy and boggy, with flechtenbewachsenen ancient granite boulders. Old trees, there is hardly the forest, in the structurally weak central Finland a major employer, has nearly all the old forests ever with their highly efficient harvesters flattened and re-afforested. What remains after such an action a sad crater landscape.

To run through the woods, no marked trails, but wide forest roads - or wild narrow paths. Intermediate pines, birches and juniper bushes electricity also moose and bears around.

The ruminant Kings of the Nordic forest can best view in the twilight, Meister Petz shows, however, never. This is perhaps even more so. Powerful paw prints betray his presence and increase in every walk a little tension.

Royal Family Stone.

As punishment in stone: The peaks of the Massif Watzmann at Berchtesgaden was the legend, once a cruel man. For climbers, the rugged rocks everything other than a penalty - even though the climb through the coldest place in Germany leads.

 

Berchtesgaden - Powerful enthroned on the Watzmann Berchtesgadener Alps. His two characteristic peaks are on the trail "Large grater" ever again. The route leads from the vantage point of Jenner on Königssee and Wasseralm Gotzen, Kärlinger and Ingolstädterhaus Steinernes into the sea. On narrow paths intersect hikers peaceful pastures and rugged rocks, cross streams and lovely cold snow fields. Who at the end of the tour still has forces left, the lures' Watzmann King "on its summit.

The first ascent is easy: A cable car runs to 1874 meters high Jenner. But instead of the much praised outlook, there is at this day of fog, visibility of each swallow. The next morning the sky is clear, fortunately. It goes to the ascent to Schneibstein, the first two peaks of the tour. Links, Austria, Germany right. The path to the summit requires use of the cross. Rewarded for a sensational view of the towering Grand Arche head for all the effort.

The first snow falls in August

A reward for the palate, there is a little further on the Gotzenalm: Here hikers can Berchtesgadener bowl handmade cheese taste. Early in the morning Modersohn Irmgard Egger processed milk, which gives her cow Mausi. "My husband still milking by hand in a cow's worth is not a machine," says the dairymaid.

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With a blaukarierten gown and flowery apron pure blouse, gray hair to a four-ring braided, it is in drafty log cabin. Moder Egger like the high life in the mountains. "You go in the spring with plenty of momentum to the pasture," she says. But they are also to: "It is like back home in the autumn." At the end of August, the first snow, then it is final.

According to legend, the craggy peaks a royal family, the punishment for their cruelty has been turned into stone. From the nearby lookout point Feuerpalfen acts of St. Bartholomew at the foot of the massif as an air intake. The white onion towers on the shore of the Königssee is a good kilometers below - the lake is from the blood of bluebloods have been fed.

For 200 years old do not Wasseralm wide paths or roads. "We get everything delivered by helicopter," says Schell Monika Moser. If the supplies for the daily stew or toilet paper for the earth to run out, must be a team from the lodge and descend into the valley to shop. Helicopters create bread and potatoes, but also the new satellite phone and solar tree then up the mountain.

Clear sight glass in the Grünsee

In the morning, the pasture in dense clouds shrouded. Fog fields move up from the valley. All sounds are muffled, even birds are seldom heard. The narrow path through the forest is muddy and slippery. The Grünsee other hand, is crystal clear - diving ducks can be even several meters below the surface even more clearly. From the shores of Grünsee results from the "ladder" to Kärlingerhaus on Funtensee, the coldest place in Germany. Minus 45.9 degrees were measured here. At the bottom of the mountain basin, it is so cold that only grasses and flowers can survive - and marmots, which are a whole lot together.

The way to Ingolstädter house by the sea Steinernes. As far as the eye can see, only to see Rocky. The higher it goes, the smaller the flower, between the stones in the barren earth claw. Even snow fields must be crossed, and at the sweaty 30 degrees. In the evening, announcing, however, a bad weather front. The valleys disappear under a thick cloud layer that requires a continuous rain. And in the morning it is snowing.

The rocks are of marine Steinernen white powdered sugar, just the water grooves are characterized as black lines. At noon, the decision to descend into the valley before the markers under the snow layer can no longer be seen. Only after a few days the weather is better and thus increase the chances, "King Watzmann" to conquer. By boat to cross the Wanderer Königssee St Bartholomew - and from then on it only goes uphill.

Sport Aircraft at eye level

With beautiful views of the winds Rinnkendlsteig upwards and hangelt on rock along. From Kührointhütte leads Falzsteig on the tree line. Continuous sweeping lead uphill to the house Watzmann arises. Crowded, most guests have dinner at nine camps on the mattress. Anyone who wants Watzmann cross, has a kräftezehrende tour ahead.

As the sun rises, kraxeln the climbers up to the summit cross of gold Hocheck. Short breather, then helmet, belt and tightened Klettersteigset. On the way to the middle mountain top need friends to forward their hands more often. Always be steeper to the left and right the abyss. Then he reached the 2713 meters the highest point of the Watzmann. Kilometers above the eye wanders across the Alpine peaks. A light aircraft flying past at eye level.

A one kilometer long, sometimes only a meter wide degree leads to the southern tip. Schroff breaks the rock on both sides. Also, the subsequent descent through scree fields and washed out creek beds, it is again. The hikers stuck around 3500 meters in altitude in the legs, as they in the evening in the lunar landscape of the dip Wimbachgries. The broad band rubble miles runs through the valley. Just at that moment to start the top of the Watzmann in the setting sun to shine. The "king" sends a farewell in Red and Orange.